Vintage Minor Register

The Gilg and Kay Expedition
80th Anniversary

In 1978 - Cameron Gilg (right) and Walter Kay meet for the first time afterr their epic journey.
The car seen here is a 1933 Morris Minor tourer - a model identical to the one taken on the expedition.

In the summer of 1933, two Englishmen - Cameron Gilg and Walter Kay - drove a Morris Minor tourer from Liverpool to Capetown
becoming the first light car to achieve such an epic journey, including crossing the Sahara.  Gilg maintained a daily diary of the trip and
his family have carefully transcribed each daily entry.  2013 is the 80th Anniversary of the trip and  so we will post each day's diary entry
on this web page - exactly 80 years to the day after they were written.

The route taken - click on the map for a larger image.

In 1981, Cameron Gilg published 'Turn Left - the Riffs Have Risen' - the story of the adventure.
After this, Yorkshire TV produced a documentarty on the trip in their 'Once in a Lifetime' series.

The Register in indebted to the Gilg family for providing the following diary entries and other material.

The Diary

Flyleaf

A. Cameron Gilg
Messrs The Westminster Bank
25, Victoria Street
Liverpool

Title Page

Log of The ‘Mirabell’ Name crossed out
(‘The Mountain Maid’) Name crossed out

Morris Minor S.V. (8h.p.) HF 8547

Bound for Cape Town from Liverpool, Eng!

Captain Alan Cameron Gilg of Cheshire Eng.

Chief Officer Walter Kay of London, Eng.

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Preliminary

1932. June 19th 23.15h Idea of a long distance trip first conceived.

June to November Idea maturing but nebulous.

November 24th 23.15h Decision to attempt trip from England to Capetown in a Morris Minor.

November 25th Decision passes ‘sleeping on it test’. Commenced preliminary investigations.

November 28th First steps.

November 28th to December 16th Discussions with numerous people, and correspondence with Messrs Morris, the AA etc.

December 16th Thanks to intermediary service of E.L.J, did good deal with Wards of Wallasey. New car ordered.
Receive £60 on ‘Ariadne’ KF8069.  Paid £25 deposit.  Letter from Morris’s saying they will alter back axle ratio (to 5.9) free of charge.

December 19th Through D.K.J met Frank Howard who may come with me.

December 31st Destroyed old diaries in order to start a fresh life unhampered by ghosts of the past seven years.

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January1st Arrived in town.  Staying at Piccadilly Hotel.  Met Walter Kay and entertained him to supper.
An ideal companion if I can get him. Knows the route from A-Z.

January 2nd To AA at 11h.  Acting on their advice have altered route.  Now going via Gibraltar, Gad and & Lake Chad to Juba thence as per original plan.
Managed to get hold of a copy of ‘Cape to Cowley via Cairo’-much helpful information therein.

January 3rd Saw Uncle Ewan and Aunt Lily.  Had tea at their flat.  V.nice to see them again.  Much helpful advice.
To Stanfords where obtained maps of Sahara etc. E vening with Walter Kay-will get definite answer by the 17th
Possible return journey with him in any case.

January 4th Acting on advice from Uncle Ewan managed to get a few minutes with Admiral.

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Sir. Wm. Goodenough, K.G.B, M.V.O., President of the Royal Geographical Society.  Gained interest & got address of Mr W. Donkin who may be very useful
in regard to introductions or means of obtaining same so as to render passage through Sahara easier from an authority point of view
ie-lessen the risk of being stopped by military or their authority.  Also other useful advice.
Had had some hopes of picking up new car on way back to Cheshire. Wired Morris’s - their reply is-“Doing utmost have car available Jan 14.”
So we are held up there.  This means that a start is not possible before about the 31st inst.  I sincerely hope that we should get across to Nairobi
before the rains.  Every day of delay now makes the chance less.  Damn.

Jan 9th Wire from Walter Kay.  He is coming on the trip.  Good.  Encouraging and helpful letter from W. Donkin.

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12th January To Oxford to fetch car.  Two letters of introduction received from W.Donkin.
 

 13th January After annoying wait of 2 and a half hours took delivery of car.  Left Mitre Hotel at 13h.  North via Rugby where halt for 2.5 hours.
Ran into very thick fog on Watling Street, at one period took nearly two hours to do 16 miles.  Got to Rabymere at 2.55 am.

14th January Car fitted with registration plates HF 8547.  Running her in with E.L.J. Night at Garth Cottages.

 15th January To Eskbank.  Took the family in car to Knutsford.

 16th January By 14.15h to London.  Conference with Kay.  Successfully concluded business. Returned by 00.30h train.

 17th January Testing “Mirabell” (crossed out) car.  Queensferry, Holywell, St Asaphs, Colwyn Bay, Llandunant, Conway, Bangor Caernavon,
Beddgelert, Capel Curig, Bettwys-y-Coed, Llandegla Mons, Queensferry.  No trouble, except previously charted radiator link.
Encountered sunny conditions.  Completed 500 miles at max speed of 30 m.p.h.
 

17th January  Testing “Mirabell” (crossed out) car. Queensferry, Holywell, St Asaphs, Colwyn Bay, Llandunant, Conway, Bangor Caernavon, Beddgelert,
Capel Curig, Bettwys-y-Coed, Llandegla Mons, Queensferry. No trouble, except previously charred radiator link.
Encountered sunny conditions. Completed 500 miles at max speed of 30 m.p.h.
 18th January “500 mile overhaul”. Triptyque forms so under way.

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 19th January  Vaccination and inoculation by Dr Ffolliot.

 20th January  Made will.

 24th January  Got instruments (various) and film outfit.

 26th January  Kay arrived from London.

 27th January  Received car documents. Conference D.R.J, W.K and self.

 28th January  2nd inoculation.

 30th January  Agreement between W.K & self completed. Car into Wards for final preparation.

 31st January All arrangements completed.

Page 6
 

The Journey

Departure from Liverpool - 1st February

1st February  Lunch at Tarporley 14.00h (3/4h). Tea at Atherstone 17.15h. Rugby 19h-21.05h. Oxford 22.40h. Mileage 204.5. Speedometer 1356.5m.
I drove to Tarporley, Kay from Tarporley to Atherstone. I drove from Atherstone to Oxford. Weather cloudy, some rain.
Sundry calls including useful interview with Mr. Stafford May and Mr Perkins of the Vacuum Oil Co. Left London 13.55h, W.K. driving to Farningham
where we lunched (14.50h-15.35h). I drove thence to Folkestone (arr 17.26). Letter from Rene. Went to see “Rome Express.
Speedometer mileage total, 1503.0m. Days sum 146.5. Total 351.0.
Previous day’s defects re mistune control & plugs remedied by Morris Garage, Oxford.

2nd February  2nd day, Weather-Bright sunshine. Kay drove to London by direct route. Dep Oxford 10.10h, arr London (Caxton House) 12.25h.
Sundry calls including useful interview with Mr. Stafford May and Mr Perkins of the Vacuum Oil Co. Left London 13.55h, W.K. driving to Farningham
where we lunched (14.50h-15.35h). I drove thence to Folkestone (arr 17.26). Letter from Rene. Went to see “Rome Express.
Speedometer mileage total, 1503.0m. Days sum 146.5. Total 351.0.
Previous day’s defects re mistune control & plugs remedied by Morris Garage, Oxford.

3rd February 3rd Day. Dep. Folkestone 10.30h. Very smooth crossing. Arr. Boulogne 12.30h.
Held up by customs owing to our over declaration of cigarretes. Off at 13.30h. Lunch at Montreuil-sur-

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Mer. Tea a Neufchatel-en-Bray. Arrived Rouen, Grand Hotel de Poste (19.15h).
I drove to Montreuil-sur-Mer.
K drove-Montreuil-sur-Mer to Neufchatel-en-Bray.
I drove N.-en-Bray to Rouen.
Weather:-Starting fine, gradually clouding over.
Mileage Reading 1626.0m. Days run 123.0m. Total 474.0m + Sea passage (26m) 500.0m

4th February Dep. Rouen, 11.05h. Walter drove to Dreux where lunch; then I drove to Vendome (tea).
Walter drove the rest of the way to Tours (Good Hotel) 19.00h. Dull run. Weather:- Overcast
Mileage. Reading 1812.0 m. Day 186.0m. Total 686.0m Left rear lamp fused. Some bother about finding cause.
Walter put it right & also insulated plug leads.

5th February  Got off in good time from Tours (9.05h). Non sop run to Angouleme where we lunched at Hotel du Palais halting for one hour.
The scenery which previously had

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been extremely dull, was of moderate interest. We noted that the pavé, inevitable in all towns a far as Tours, occurred in only one or two villages.
Poitiers and Angouleme are both rambling old towns built on hills. From Angouleme ran non-stop to Bordeaux (17.00h)
gradually passing into the wine-growing districts en route. We are staying at the Royal Gascogne Hotel, the best we’ve struck yet; v. modern.
Stages Tours-Angouleme- A.C.G
 Angouleme-Bordeaux- W.K.
Weather Drizzle at first, then dull with occasional sun. Much warmer and air softer.
Mileage Rdg. 2033.4m Day 221.4m. Total 907.4m.

6th February  Last night we went to the flicks & and had a look round. This a.m. called on Mr. McIntosh a great friend of Uncle Evan.
Mr Mm & Mrs Graham both very kind, showed us around an gave us lunch. Bought automatic aficce??
Left Bordeaux 15.15h., took Arcachon road in error, regained main road to

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Bayonne. Pavé for 25 miles. Then good road through dense forest. Halted at a little estaminet for a snack and spent a long time repairing wiring of rear lamp.
Had driven to this point, Walter drove the rest of the way to Biarritz where arrived at the Hotel d’Angleterre (19.15h).
Dinner at Café de Paris (expensive). Biarritz has completely “got” us with its fascinatingness.
Weather. Fair 2 warm. Mileage Rdg. 2161.7m.day 128.3m. Total 1035.7m.

7th February At Biarritz. In morning overhauled car. Lunch at Café de Coupole. Despite rain took lots of film. Tea and shopping.
Flicks in evening. Letter writing. Rec’d letter from Rene. Biarrritz is God’s own paradise. Unfortunately we are here out of season.
It seems to us that this is the ideal honeymoon spot.
Weather. Dull in a.m. Then fine rain. Wind gradually rising and sea getting decidedly rough.

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8th February Left Biarritz at 11.25h, having overslept badly. Very easy passage through customs at Behobia, the Spanish officials
allowing our declaration of arms, cigarettes & cameras free of duty. They never even looked at our luggage.
We had lunch at the Hotel de Londres, San Sebastian. Neither of us have any Spanish which will make our traverse of Spain
somewhat amusing. An interesting run up to Tolosa and Beasain where we had a puncture. The wheel was soon changed however
and we proceeded only to be held up at a level crossing. While waiting for the train to approach an Austin “twenty” pulled up behind us
and a young Englishman got out, coming to us to have a few words. After this we climbed up the Puerto de Echegarate (2,159 ft.),
an interesting climb through wild scenery. The summits were obscured by lowering clouds. We reached Vitoria just after dark
and were besieged by a crowd of gamins, who chattered directions in

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French. They ran alongside & guided us to the Fronton Hotel where we again met our friend from Beasain though only for two minutes.
By signs we instructed a man at the garage to repair the punctured tyre. Most of the villages we passed were squalid. Saw many bullock carts.
Stages:- Biarritz-San Sebastian- A.C.G.
     San Sebastian- Vitoria- W.K.
Weather Foul. Rain in varying intensity all day.
Mileage Rdg. 2270.1 Day. 108.4 Total 1144.1m

February 9th Left Vitoria at 8.45h. Somewhat slow run to Gorge of Pancorba where we halted and took photos-rather good rock formations.
We were ascending continuously but gradually and our time improved. Burgos was passed through at 11.30h. The road was excellent, all corners being banked.
We reached Aranda de Duero for lunch; this place being the only village of size for over a hundred miles. The morning, which had

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Augured a fine day now fulfilled its promise and we had brilliant sunshine and blue skies. After lunch we climbed to the Puerto de Somosierra (4,959 ft.). Good panoramic views of the Sierras which were all snow covered. After crossing the pass we made v. good going. The atmosphere was v. clear and we could see for miles over the tableland spotting Madrid some 30-40 miles away. All the villages south of the pass were drenched in warm sunshine and the inhabitants were sitting out of doors. Crops were up and standing 2-3 inches. It seems we have definitely left winter behind. We entered Madrid through reeking rowdy suburbs; these marking the contrast with the centre of the city v. marked. Traffic was tremendous, everyone blinding along and blowing horns. After wandering around dazedly for  some time we found the Savoy Hotel at dusk (Arr. Madrid 17.45h/footnote). After baths and changing we sallied forth and explored. We were both amazed

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at the wide streets and splendid buildings. Madrid is a v. modern city, in some parts strongly reminiscent of London. They dine v.late in Spain for,
entering the Hotel Paris Restaurant at 22.10h we were just in time for a political dinner, having unintentionally gatecrashed.
The dinner was in honour of the new Minister Plenipotentiary of Spain in Lima. The head waiter, who spoke English, explained it to us and we were allowed to remain
on buying 2 tickets. Afterwards we went to the Alcazar night-club where we were badly “stung” over champagne, and the advertised cabaret didn’t take place.
Stages Vitoria-Aranda de Duero- A.C.G.
 Aranda de Duero-Madrid-W.K.
Weather A fine morning leading up to brilliant sunshine.
Mileage Rdg 2509.2 Day 239.1 Total 1381.2

10th February  Exploring Madrid. Some v.fine buildings; also smells & noise-somewhat nerve-racking.

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The Royal Palace looked desolate, one part swarming with citizens however. In a.m. Walter “tickled up car".
Weather:- Brilliant sunshine warm.

11th February  Left Hotel Savoy at 10.20h. After some twenty minutes of nerve wracking driving got clear
of the city.& proceeded over tableland with the Sierra Guadaramma to our right. There was a cold wind blowing from these mountains.
Presently the Sierra de Gredos appeared ahead and to the left; these looked beautiful with their snow caps lost in masses of cloud.
As we proceeded we noticed that that the villages were cleaner & more prosperous looking than in the north. Also the land was very extensively cultivated,
some of the crops being very well advanced. We had entertained hopes of having lunch at Talavera-de la Reina but it offered nothing,
so we pressed through the scene of one of the Peninsular War battles and, presently

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reaching a small eminence, lunched meagrely on chocolate and whisky-our sole supplies. The panorama here was very wide-a great plateau
given over to agriculture and sheep rearing; bounded by Sierras. We kept on losing altitude as we followed the Tajo (Tagus) valley,
and passed ruins and relics of the Moorish occupation of Spain. There was much activity in the fields & we saw many farms with their centuries old
methods of work & transport; the latter being by means of ass, mule or horse. As previously during our traverse of Spain the dogs belonging to
the farms indulged in rushing at the car, barking the while. We saw a number of almond trees in blossom and at Almaraz I noticed some storks perched on the belfry.
Shortly after leaving Almaraz we descended to a gorge through which flowed the Tajo. This gorge was spanned by a fine bridge. We then

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Began to climb up a splendidly engineered road to the Puerte de Miraverte From which there was a magnificent vista across the broad valley to the Sierra de Gredos.
Thence our way through plantations of cork oak trees. We passed through scenes reminiscent of wild west films- i.e. rounding up of cattle by men on horseback.
We espied Trujillo some fifteen miles away & reached it at 17.20h. It is a quaint little country town with a clean but amusing hotel-the Gran Cubano.
Walter couldn’t get warm here-had to hug a radiator. Weather Dull at first but gradually clearing up. Cooler.
Stages. Madrid-5 miles W. of Talavera de Reina-A.C.G
 5m w.Talavera d.l.Rena-Trujillo-W.K
Mileage Rdg 2977.5 Day 170.3 Total 1551.5m
Car Running well

12th February Dep. Trujillo 8.30h. Through agricultural country to Sevilla (arr 15.30h) Nothing of special interest, the scenery bein
g practically a repetition of yesterday morning’s run. We saw swallows at Los Santos & at Sevilla there were oranges ripening.
At Sevilla we stayed at the Christina Hotel where it was gay and there were a number of English people. It appears that Sevilla is a favourite resort
for week-end trips from Gibraltar. We went to the “flicks” in the evening. We both liked the place very much.
The cathedral is magnificent. I took quite a number of “shots” from the tower.
Weather:- Fair, but cool wind till we crossed the Puerto de las Marismas. Slight frost overnight.
Stages Trujillo-Los Santos- A.W.G
  Los Santos-Sevilla- W.K.
Mileage:- Rdg 2870.7. Day 193.2. Total 1747

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13th February One letter (from Rene) at Cooks. Left Sevilla at 10.25h. We have noted that at practically all places at which we have spent a n
that there is no hotel garage; in some instances the nearest garage being some considerable distance away. We took lunch with us on the previous day.
The mornings run was again through agricultural country. Several of the “neat houses” had a cactus hedge around their diminutive gardens.
We halted for lunch in sight of Cadiz harbour & a minor tragedy occurred. We had a bottle of beer each but no corkscrew.
Walter essayed to crack the neck of his bottle off on a nearby kilometre stone; there was a sudden explosion and the beer was not.
I managed to excavate half of my cork & pushed the rest in so we did have some beer.
The scenery improved as we proceeded & a grand range of mountains appeared. We saw these for a considerable

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number of miles before we realised that they were in Africa. We very nearly ran out of petrol but just reached Tarifa for refuelling.
There we were greeted by a loud peal of thunder from Africa. The run, via Algeciras to Gibraltar was v. fine though unfortunately
rain obscured a lot of the view. It was good to be in British territory again. We both fell v. heavily for “Gib” and duly celebrated our crossing of Europe.
We reached the new Rock Hotel at 17.15h.
Weather:- Frequent heavy showers
Stages:- Sevilla-Puerto de Santa Maria- A.W.G.
      P.d.S.Maria-Gibraltar W.K.
Mileage:- Rdg 3038.9 Day 178.2 Total 1922.9

14th February  Exploring. Through Waterworks tunnel, Moorish castle & galleries. Met Messrs Inossi Senr & Jnr, friends of Uncle Evan.
V. helpful & entertaining-also A.A. agent. We travel to Africa to-morrow. Felt v.proud to be British having seen Gibraltar.

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15th February  Met a number of people from Liverpool off the Henderson Liner “Lama” as we were leaving the Rock Hotel.
Aid goodbye to young Mr Inossi, collected our revolvers and left Gib at 11.30h. Great palaver at La Linea (Spanish customs);
despite the fact that we were en route for Morocco the officials insisted on rummaging our bags-making an awful mess & their grubby fingers pawing clothes etc.
It wouldn’t be so bad if they were clean and efficient like British Customs Officers. Just as we were departing a reporter approached me so I “shot” our story.
The harbour at Algeciras was both extremely exasperating & ludicrous to a degree. We were saved from doing violence by letting an interpreter do the doings.
Shipped across by the “Ciudad de Algeciras” Reached Ceuta  shortly after 16h and grabbed hold of the Majestic Hotel interpreter who proved v.obliging & useful.
The rabble that greeted the boat was amazing.

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All nationalities and all sloppy to a degree. We had tea at the Majestic Hotel & then squeezed the interpreter into the car & drove to the customs at the Morocco frontier.
There was no trouble here & we had a good run through the Riff mountains by the 2 year old main road through Tetouan to Tanger. We had to stop & show our passports at Borch.
At the edge of Tanger. Our passports were stamped four times to-day. Altogether it was a v. exhausting day of pantomime, palavers & procrastination.
We reached the El Minza Hotel at 9.10h. And as we arrived at our base camp, we set foot in Africa for the first time.
Weather:- Much rain till 15.30h then fair.
Stages:- Gibraltar-Algeciras-A.C.G.
 Ceuta-Tanger-W.K.
Mileage- Rdg 3138.8m. Sea passage 15.0m. Day 104.9m. Total 2027.8m

16th February Making contact with Lt-Col.  W. K. Ellis to whom I had written a letter of introduction from Uncle Evan. We were v.kindly received and Colonel Ellis promptly began to help us.
We took the car to the British Garage where Mr. Lacy, friend and partner of Col. Ellis, leapt at us & started on the car like a terrier onto a rat. We instantly knew that the best would be done for us.
Later we adjourned to the Café Central with Lacy and one or two of his pals.
 This place is most cosmopolitan & offers an amazing diversity of peoples, languages, customs & costumes.

17th February  On advice from Col. Ellis & through his influence wrote to R.H. Prince Eugene de Ligne of the Belgian Embassy, London.
The Prince has much experience of trans Saharan motoring, and the colonel thought it advisable to have the Prince’s

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advice before tackling the Reggan- Gao crossing. Therefore we shall have to remain here till we get a reply; this will take some time even by air mail.

18th February to 2nd March Gilg and Kay were marooned in Tangier, waiting for an important letter rom the Prince de Ligne providing vital information on the way ahead.

3rd March  End of our hold-up. Car “hotted up” & tuned to the last ounce thanks to the unremitting attentions of Lacy, Peter Hale, & Walter.
We are proceeding to Alger on advice of H.H. P. de Lignes, who wrote a most helpful & friendly reply. At Alger we hope to come to an agreement
with the Compagnie Generale Trans-Saharienne re the Reggan-Gao crossing.  We are very sorry to leave all the good friends we met at Tangier.
I could write pages of our stay, with all the jolly evenings, the rides & explorations in good friendly company, but they are personal, happy memories
& are hardly connected with the trip. Suffice to say that I shall treasure the memory of Tangier & earnestly hope that we shall meet all our good friends there again.

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Left the British Garage at 9.40h. Were seen of by Col. Ellis, Lacy, Peter and his wife, & Charlie Gaunt. With the silencer taken out the car now makes
an impressive noise & has more power.  The run was uneventful so far as Ouezzan where we lunched at the Grand Hotel.  From here the scenery was good,
the road writhing exceedingly through mountainous country to Fes. We got a fine view of Fez from some 1000 ft. above; the whole town presenting a brave show
of twinkling lights. La Ville Nouvelle is v. modern, and a striking contrast to the Moorish town. Put up at Grand Hotel. Arrived 19.40h.
Weather: Fine, though apt to be hazy. Warm.
Stages: Tanger-Ouezzan-A.C.G
    Ouezzan-Fes W.K.
Mileage: Day 222.5m---------------------------------------------------------222.5
 Prev. Tot. 2027.8m-1/19 error in instrument*------------------------------1910.9
  Testing at Tanger-------------------------------------------------------------71.7
         Total, Miles 2205.1
*1/19 of 1986.8 miles as total of 2029.8 includes 41.0 sea passages.
This 41.0 included in total of 1910.9

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 4th March  Started off to have a look at Fes, but after a while abandoned the effort as it was v.oppressive in the narrow streets of the old town.
The new town was in the process of getting ready for a Braderie. We left at 12.35h taking lunch with us. The weather turned to rain and spoilt our view
of what must normally be a grand run to Taza. We climbed steadily, with occasional descents, to the Col of Touahar (558 metres) & thence proceeded
to Taza where we arrived at 16.15h. Put up at the Hotel du Dauphine. Taza appears to be a military station set in mountainous country. There were 2 amusing
incidents when going to bed. First of all Walter was running his bath when he decided to start again owing to a peculiar blue fluid appearing.
Leaning well over the bath he turned what he thought to be the tap, but received an unexpected shower bath, having turned the shower lever on in error.
While I collapsed with laughter he removed a shirt soaked with ice cold water. Immediately after this I decided to test the switches (2) over the beds;
one of these stuck. About 2 minutes later

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there was a peremptory knocking at the door. I opened it & beheld masses of staff. I asked to be called at 7.30. Our brief conversation was at first almost drowned
by a continuous ringing, which was stopped by Walter pulling out the bell-switch which had jammed.
Weather: Oppressive & dull, then rain.
Stages:  Fes-55K stone (Taza) A.C.G
      55K.st-Taza  W.K.
Mileage:    Day. 78.1 Total 2283.2m.

5th March  Left Taza at 9.15h. Made good going over a well made road.  Some fine views of the Grand Atlas, still snow covered.
After about 40 miles the country became v.arid, practically desert with hills bounding it.  We halted for lunch in this waste & practised shooting
on our empty beer bottles.  This 3 km. short of El Aioun-Sidi-Mellouk.  About halfway between this place & Oudjda we ran into a tremendous swarm of

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locusts which stretched for ten miles, probably being several miles wide also.  They were as thick as snow and hundreds were killed by passing cars.
The natives were endeavouring to keep them on the move by means of flapping pieces of cloth & banging on tins &c.  The sun catching their wings
gave the surface of the land a silvery-pink appearance-making a grim visitation look almost beautiful.
 We had no trouble at the customs at Oudjda & soon reached Algeria.  The run to Tlemcen was through quite pretty mountainous country.
We reached the Hotel Transatlantique at 17.00h.  A very pleasant little hotel.
 The land around here is v.much cultivated & the hills are verdant.
 Saw “Dr Jekyll & Mr Hyde” on the flicks.
Weather:- Fine
Stages:-  Taza-3km.W. El Aioun-Sidi-Mellouk-A.C.G
  El A.-S-M-Tlemcen    W.K.
Mileage Day 190.6 Total 2473.8

6th March  Before leaving Tlemcen called on the Credit Foncier where I expected to find a letter or so waiting, but, to my surprise there was nothing.
We left Tlemcen at 10.40h, and had a bumpy passage over roads much corrugated by heavy traffic. We had trouble with the fan belt rubbing against the outlet water jacket.
Walter fixed this temporarily with a length of rag. In Rio Salado we were stopped by a gendarme for “speeding”. Priceless!
Reached Oran at 14.45h, & put up at the Continental Hotel. Had a belated lunch & explored.
Weather :- Overcast.
Stages:- Tlemcon-3K.N. Temouchent- A.C.G
      3K.N. Temouchent-Oran-----W.K.
Mileage:- Day 87.5. Total 2561.3m.

7th March. Despite best intentions & early rising we didn’t start till 8.45h, being held up by distractions of staff at hotel in getting our luggage down &cs. Our progress

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Continued to be delayed-firstly by the engine suddenly giving up the ghost.  It took us an hour & a half to locate & rectify the trouble
which was seated in the petrolift.  To make matters worse the weather was foul-rain and cold wind.  Having cured the car we discovered
we were on the wrong road & had to return to Mostagenem.  The same distance after leaving Mostagenem the road was bad, being corrugated
and full of pot-holes. P rogress was slow & became slower still when we had to negotiate a melee of stationary lorries; the passage between
the mammoth vehicles & a steep bank was so narrow that Walter, fearing for the safety of one of our spotlights, nearly had his arm wrenched off
by contact with one of the lorries in an effort to save it.  Fortunately no real harm was done.  Somewhat battered we halted for a belated lunch of sandwiches,
chocolate & beer at a spot 631/2 k. short of Tenes. Refreshed.

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And in some measure restored to our smiling selves we proceeded along a better and decidedly picturesque corniche road until sunset.
After dark the country became flat and there was nothing to do but bat along to Algiers which we reached at 21.30h.
Here we were well received and given a sumptuous apartment.  St Georges Hotel.
Weather:- Rain till 15h; then fair; rain in the evening.
Stages:-  Oran-63.5 K.W. Tenes---------A.C.G.
63.5K.W. Tenes----Algiers-----W.K..
Mileage:- Day 285m  Total 2846.3m.

8th March  Made contact with Mr. Fletcher of the Vacuum Oil Co., who is helping us with our plans.  By his aid we had talks with the
Territoires du Sud people & the Cie. Gle.  Trans-Saharienne. In consequence we shall go to Colomb Bechar & thence to Reggan
in place of the Laghouat-Ghardaia-Timimoun route.

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We hope to be allowed to cross the Tanezrouft with the bus which leaves Reggan on the 20th inst.

9th March  No diary entry.

10th March  Thanks to the excellent help of Mr Micallef of Cooks we were able to get all our equipment.
A v. busy day, but fortunately the weather had cleared up at last.

11th March  Had hoped to leave Algiers but the chains for the car hadn’t arrived. These had been left behind at Tangiers.
This loss wasn’t discovered till we reached Tlemcen, & though we wired from Oran & received a reply at Algiers
to say they were on their way, there was no sign of them. We decided to wait until evening in case they turned up.

12th March  Left Algiers, minus the chains, at 8.20h. We had only proceeded some 20 miles when we discovered the rear offside brake hard

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on. We spent two hours trying to rectify matters but were stumped by an apparent seize.  Walter disconnected the requisite brake cables
and drove the rest of the way to Saida with 3 brakes. We passed through mainly hilly country to Tagremaret; after which point we had a 40 mile run
across bleak country, supposedly dangerous after dark. All we saw was a prairie dog. It was cold however & and we were both glad to reach Saida (21.45 h)
We could only get some brick like sandwiches t eat, & retired, v.tired and rather fed up (but not the inner man) (Added in rough pencil)

Weather : Dull, showery & cold
Stages : Algiers-20 miles S. Algiers—A.C.G
     20 mS.Algiers-Saida-----------W.K.
Mileage : Day 292.4.m. Total 3138.8m

13th March  Got the brakes, which had seized, put right at the Standard Garage. Off by 11.40, a motley crowd attending our start. A good run as far as Buktub, shortly after leaving

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which place we departed from the road and had our first experience of a piste. We managed to elude some small sandstones but met with showers,
while it was still very cold. The scenery son changed to desert with barren mountains relieving the monotony. The track deteriorated and our time suffered.
We overtook a train & shortly after our fan belt went. Our bad luck of the last few days continued when we had difficulty in securing a primitive room at Ain Sefra (18.30h).
There was no garage so we had to park the car outside our lodgings and, having removed guns & everything of value, engaged an arab youth to sleep in it, or rather he engaged himself.
The one consolation of the day of bad weather, bad roads & car giving trouble, was a good hot dinner. Turned in early, v. tired.
Weather : Dull, showers, cold.

Stages :Saida-56K.N Mecheria-A.C.G. 56KN.Mecheria-Ain Sefra- W.K.
Mileage : Day 168.0m. Total 3306.8m.

14th March  The morning was dismal-rain, strong winds and cold. We visited the Chef d’Annexe & he told us that it was feasible to proceed to Beni Ounif.
Our names were taken to be wirelessed to Beni Ounif, so that, in the event of our non-arrival we should be searched for.
We got some provisions & extra petrol and started off at 9.30h. The track was bad from the start & the outcome distinctly unpromising
with the wind causing sandstorms all the time. Walter thought it would be better to turn back but I thought anything preferable to a day in Am Sefra.
We battled along, having to negotiate several drifts of sand. We ploughed through them all, while Walter bemoaned the sand and its effect on the engine.
The oil pressure gauge went somewhat wrong but otherwise nothing occurred to stop us. We reached Beni Ounif at 13.45h & found a friendly driver of the Transat

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who spoke English & cheered us up & told us about our journey on to Gao & further. Booked in at the Mimosa Hotel.  The wind was now blowing in gusts
of considerable force and sand was everywhere. Spent the afternoon repacking and arranging our kit which was shaken all over the place
by the appalling tracks we had traversed. Walter was occupied with the car & cleaning the guns.
 Some palaver about checking in at the military post. Quite a number of French tourists staying here.  They are making the 15 days circular tour of the Sahara.
An hour or so improving our acquaintance with the driver of the bus. V.cordial & useful.  In 3 years 3 months we make the 6th & 7th British at this hotel.
Saw Mia Mollison’s name in the book.

Weather : Cool, sandstorms, strong winds. Little sun.
Stages : Ain Sefra- 42K.N. Beni Ounif---A.C.G.
     42K.N. Beni Ounif---Beni Ounif—W.K.
Mileage : Day 82.5 m.    Total 3389.3m.

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15th March  11h. The wind got stronger during the night and so we have decided to wait till it dies down.  There is sand everywhere
and it is blowing in great gusts that stagger one.  Our Transat friend assures us of good pistes ahead. He told us that the Ain Sefra-Ben Ounif piste
is the worst in the Sahara.  He also tells us that there is a weekly car across the Tanezrouft, so that, (if necessary-crossed out)
we can go with that should we miss the bus on the 20th.  12h Great excitement during arrival of trains.
 The weather improving we decided to leave after lunch. Dep. Beni Ounif at 14.30 and had a good run through to Colomb Bechar which we reached at 19.10h.
Put up at the Hotel d’Europe.  The weather improved steadily and now (21h) it is a clear starlit night with little wind.

Stages :- Beni Ounif-Colomb Bechar- W.K.
Mileage :- Day 71.9m. Total 3461.2m.
Weather :- Described in account above.

16th March  At Colomb Bechar (Camp II). Mr. Vignaud, the proprietor of the hotel took us to the military authorities to obtain permission to cross the Sahara.
They produced a sergeant of the Foreign Legion to interpret. Afterwards we went to the Compagnie Generale Transsaharienne to make a contract with them.
But though Bechar is the terminus we were told that contracts were made at Reggan. We gave our legionnaire a drink.
He is a Pole with five years service and has now a good well paid position.  Most of the day was spent in overhauling though after lunch we set out
to take some photos. Coming across a squad of the penal battalion of the legion we tried a manoeuvre to get some pictures unseen, fearing to be stopped.
We affected to be keenly interested in a game of tennis which was proceeding alongside the place where the delinquents were washing. We had noticed an extremely watchful overseer

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whom we had dubbed Sergeant Lejaune, as he resembled that pleasant creation of P.G. Wren. The poor devils were working hard in the heat of the midday sun
while periodically Sergeant Lejaune would call out to a man who had to drop his spade or whatever he was using, approach at the double and salute smartly.
Presumably he was cursed for not working hard enough and told so in no polite terms.  The tirade over the wretch saluted and doubled back to work,
only to be recalled to salute more smartly. The whole gang of  some fifty men were watched by armed native soldiers and surrounded by barbed wire.
W found it v. interesting and were v. keen to get a picture. At last we took the plunge.  Within two minutes a sous-officer came up to us and demanded our films.
ergeant Lejaune missed nothing even though we had considered ourselves out of range.

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We handed over our films and crept back to the hotel, our zest for photography somewhat damped.   In the evening our Polish friend turned up,
bringing with him a fellow legionnaire, an Anglo-Indian & a sergeant also. We learnt much about the legion and the Sahara.  They accepted our whisky eagerly
and the talks went on. What they told us hardly comes in the scope of the proper diary but I hope I will write it elsewhere.
 They were not v. sanguine about our crossing to Gao and Walter got rather gloomy about it.
so we bade adieu to what Walter would call “a couple of real tough guys”

Weather :- Fine, warm.

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March 17th  Left Bechar at 7.00h and promptly lost the way. No one seemed to know until we met an aviation officer.
At last we found the piste and proceeded at an average of 25 m.p.h. over corrugated track.  This part of the desert is over a vast plain of stones.
Sometimes the track is v. hard to find.  It was much warmer and there being no scenery one was apt to get sleepy.  At last we approached a range of sandhills
and descending through a cleft in the tableland which we had been traversing, came upon Beni Abbes nestling in a valley, one of the solitary havens
of this part of the world.  How one welcomes the sight of water & vegetation after hours of stones and sand.  We drove up to the Transsaharienne Hotel
at 13.40h and fund a paradise.  The proprietor & his wife, both charming people greeted us and we entered a quiet patio

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and saw the French party who were travelling in the Transat bus, driven by our friend of Beni Ounif.  They looked so cool, all the girls in sleeveless frocks,
under a big sunshade while a tame gazelle looked at us with its soft brown eyes.  All this was v. soothing, hot & thirst & dusty as we were,
but better was coming up for we heard a English voice and before we knew where we were Mrs Sonia Howe, novelist had arranged everything
and we were eating a fine hors d’oeuvre as we’ve ever had and drinking cool beer.  The lunch was excellent and everything
incredibly comfortable & restful to be found in the desert.  The afternoon was not so restful.  We transferred practically all our kit to the Sahara bus
to be transported to Gao, so that we should only have to carry the absolutely necessary petrol, water, food etc across the main desert.
 We had a long talk with he driver of the

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bus who was somewhat sceptical as to our chances of success.  The principal obstacle seemed to be the smallness of our tyres.  Then we needed extra petrol
to carry us to Adrar and all we could get was a 50 litres bidon.  This being found was awkward to fit in & heavy to lift in and out.  Further to get the petrol
into our tank we had to take a small tin & first pour the petrol out of the bidon into the tin & from the tin into the tank.
 Just before dinner a bus came in, having just crossed from Gao.  There was a Miss Winton on board and she described how each way
the bus had broken down.  So this made us more cheerful than ever!  However, Mrs. Howe quite took us under her wing, in the same way as she had
helped Victor Smyth when he had landed at Beni Abbes a few days previously.  She shoved us to bed early and arranged our breakfast & supplies of

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food.  We were v. glad of this help as we were both a little discouraged at the apparent great difficulty of getting the car to Gao.

Weather :- Fine. Hot.
Mileage :- Day 1812m.  Total 3642.3m.

March 18th  We were called at 5.00h and we were not allowed to stay in bed as lights and breakfast appeared immediately.
Mrs Howe came & saw we were all right and at 5.45h we set off in the first glimmer of dawn. We retraced the line of our previous days trip
through the defile and struck off to the south on gaining the tableland.  At first the character of the road was much the same as on the previous day
but presently we entered an area of peculiarly formed hills; these were completely barren and were composed of rock which looked almost like coal.
The road was well defined but in an appalling condition-interminable corrugation.  The progress was one bump after another and

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we were expecting a spring to go at any moment.  At each bump the bidon heaved and bucked and everything else rattled and bumped.
We kept plugging along, taking 3 hour shifts & only stopping to refuel.  In 3 or 4 places the legion were working on the track, trying to render it more feasible
- a task of more than Herculean proportions.  They were mostly men of the penal battalions.  We plugged on & on and eventually reached Adrar at 17.45h
Twelve hours continuous going over, except for the first 50 km & the last 80 km, a surface such as motorists in Britain dream of after too good a night out.
Our only mishap however were one puncture and one slight stopping in 6 ins of sand.  We had a friendly reception at the hotel.

Weather :- Fine & hot
Mileage :- Day 259.4 Total 3901.8

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March 19th  Dep. Adrar at 6.25h. and had a good run through to Reggan.  Piste good over a flat stony plain.  We met a couple of lorries returning to Paris
after an expedition to the Lake Chad district.  They had something to do with “Le Matin”.  We reached a spot where the tableland ended
and we could see for miles ahead the Tanezrouft, desert of thirst.  Immediately below lay an oasis with 2 buildings, which together with a small native village
constitutes Reggan, last outpost of the north.  We gazed across the desert and visualized the 1308 km. run straight across to Gao with only
the artificial Bidon No. 5 and the outpost of Tabankort in all that stretch.  Nothing else but rock and sand.  We descended to the ******* Rene Estienne
& re-encountered the Sahara bus, which had made the journey from Beni Abbes to Reggan in one day.  Here we received kind help & proceeded to prepare
? Arr 9.45h

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for the journey across the Tanezrouft.  We engaged a native guide.  One Bakkik. By putting all our luggage on the bus we were enabled to find room for him,
though when loaded we were crammed to the last inch. Besides Bakkik we carried our 50 litre bidon of petrol, 40 litres of water, spares for the car,
spare oil, distilled water, food for five days, plates, primus stove, mineral water, whisky, beer, brandy, some ammunition, a shovel, rope, planks, maps,
compass, drinking cups, electric torch, first aid outfit, cameras, and personal kit.  This last was virtually nil. We carried each a pair of flannel “bags”, a pullover,
& pair of pyjamas. Then crossed out (We wore the flannel “bags” over all.)  We wore each a khaki shirt and shorts, stockings, shoes & topee,
& a sports jacket. We took a leather coat & mackintosh to make Bakkik a seat.   Walter worked hard on the car and by sunset we were loaded.
I made a contract with the manager of the Company which would enable us to obtain petrol & water at Bidon No.5 and

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Tanezrouft. The contract also provided that in the event of breakdown they would pick us up if we had not arrived at Gao by the 24th March
& no news had been received.  We decided to start with the bus and a lorry which was going to Bidon No.5.
It is the unknown which inopines fear and 800 miles of desert to be crossed with a full load & only 8h.p. is no light undertaking unless you know something about it.
And if the specially built Renault buses broke down what of the little Morris?  If we did break down the cost of rescue would  (A big bit crossed out:- in all probability mean
(doubly crossed out) the end of the trip.  The biggest test we had yet encountered) be great & would impair our finances somewhat.  We were thus on the verge of the biggest test we had

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yet encountered and there was excuse for some nervousness.  I got into bed, & reading Kipling’s “If” fortified myself & went to sleep.

Weather:- Fine, hot.
Mileage :- Day 90m. Total 3991.8m.

March 20th  I awoke at ten past two to hear the first sounds of awakening activity. We dressed and got ready, and swallowing some hot coffee were all set.
Bakkik somehow found room for himself in the back, though how is a mystery.  He must have been terribly cramped. I t was a rather eerie scene,
the two big vehicles and the baby car-the sound of their engines & their lights seeming insignificant in contrast with the desert night.
Our car’s lights showed up the desert through the open gates of the Bordj (missing word from 19th March? See notes). We shook hands with our fellow travellers
and with “au voir” & “bon voyage” ringing in our ears we sallied forth into the night, the time being 3.05h. We were very soon battling with sand

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and progress was v. slow. Time & again the car threatened to stick but always at the crucial moment gave a supreme effort and convulsively reached some solid ground.
Grimly we lurched & ploughed along till presently there was an improvement and our speed increased. Shortly after the first glimmerings of daylight appeared
and we could see that we were once more traversing a stony plain. After this the going was excellent and we kept up a steady 35 to 40 mph.  The bus was most considerately
keeping behind to see how we weathered the sand.  Once the sand was left behind it overtook us while we refuelled, though they stopped to lend us a tin as we had left behind
our little one for transferring petrol from bidon to tank. Presently there came a period of great excitement.  We met 4 cars.  Firstly, a couple of Czechs in a Chevrolet,
then 2 Fords containing 2 sisters, French, with three assistants. We had met their brother in Algiers. And lastly we met, incredible though it seems,
a Morris Minor-a two seater 1930 model.  It was carrying two young men

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from Kenya to England.  Truly a fact far more strange than any fiction.  Never before had a British baby car crossed the Sahara & now that two should do it simultaneously
- not only 2 baby cars but two of the same make.  We chatted for a while but they were anxious to catch up the other cars as they hadn’t enough petrol to take them to Reggan.
So we parted, amazed but cheered.  If their minor had survived the journey from Nairobi then we should survive the journey to that place.
The coincidence of the double attempt from different directions was, in a v. minor way, analogous to the case between Amundsen and Scott
to be the first to reach the S. Pole.  Following these alarums & excursions nothing more transpired till after hours of endless flat desert broken only by
the aviation guides every 10 km., we saw an excrescence on the surface.  This resolved itself, into Bidon No.5**, that halting place in the middle of nowhere.
Two buses, originally used as sleeping cars by the Transsaharienne Co. constitute the sleeping quarters.
     ** Arr. 15.20h

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A few chairs & 2 tables outside complete the furniture while there is a big box full of metal utensils for cooking & eating. One brings all food & drink,
though water (v.magnesium) can be bought at 5 frs. a litre. There is a petrol pump (Shell) where ne fills up at the rate of 10fr 36c. per litre (abt 10/- a gall).
Two Arabs keep charge of this benighted city and I can quite believe that one sometimes go mad. As it was they were overjoyed to see us, despite
the fact that there was a temporary military camp stationed there. We filled our tank & bidon with petrol and Bakkik, saying we had not enough
as tomorrow we should need more, insisted on filling a 4 litre oil tin.b.   As we were preparing some lunch the bus appeared & commenced to refuel.
Bakkik communicated his fears as to our petrol supply to the driver & it was agreed that we should depart first in the morning & when we had a refuel
would do so from the bus. This was all the more considerate of him & his pal

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(the radio man) as they had originally intended to continue their journey that evening. We would have agreed to carry on also but they insisted that we must rest.
 There having been something in the engine when pulling hard during the last 3 days, Walter changed the plugs, putting in Lodge in place of the standard AC.
 We turned in at 19.30h., after one of the (fountain pen runs out at this point in the diary and is replaced by pencil) Arabs had brought us mint tea.

Weather :- Fi,h.
Mileage :- Day 318.7m. Total 4310.5m.

March 21st  Mint tea again appeared at a quarter to one in the morning.  We woke up, Walter complaining of the cold & yet not energetic enough to get up & collect a spare rug.
We left at 1.50h & proceeded for about an hour when Bakkik shouted- “Attend! Attend!”  We had got off the piste.  Bakkik and I got out and tried to see if the lights of the bus were visible.
Suddenly I

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spotted a glow to the east. “Ah” we said “there is the bus” & straightaway swinging our car round proceeded to signal with the lights.
The response was somewhat startling because the light rose in the air & grew larger every second.  This phenomenon was quickly discerned
to be caused by the rising of the moon.  We were now lost in the desert & behind the bus just when we most desired to precede it in order to conserve
sufficient petrol and to have its assistance in case of breakdown; not to mention the enormous moral advantage.
 There was nothing to be done but retrace our own tracks.  We followed these for about10km & then Bakkik again took up his chant of “Attend! Attend!”
With the aid of my torch we picked up the fresh tracks of the bus and proceeded in the new direction more cautiously.  Though relieved we had lost valuable time,

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petrol, & position.  We subsequently learnt that the bus waited for an hour at midday for us in order to give us extra petrol.
Our time was further delayed, when at about 7.30 the car slowed up & we found one brake seized & the main leaf of the rear inside spring broken.
We feared the effect of carrying our heavy load under these conditions.  Walter as engineer of the party took upon himself the arduous task
of driving the rest of the way.  This delicate business took twelve hours so we feared to go fast and had to traverse a great deal of sand and “touffes”.
These last were a nightmare.  The car swayed & rolled like a ship in storm & the effect of the broken spring was audible.  Also Bakkik feared that our petrol
would give out.  Happily his fear was not realised & battered & infinitely weary we reached Tabankort at 19.30h.  We were greeted warmly by our friends of the bus:
The radio man promptly wirelessed our arrival.  Poor Bakkik was stiff & sore and

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decided that, as we had now crossed the Tanezrouft & no real trouble lay ahead, he should travel the remaining distance to Gao in the bus.
He had been a great help to us and must have had literally, one hell of a journey.  We ourselves, had a grilling day-the 17h40m. of continuous going,
save halts for refuelling & one 5 minute meal. A third of the way was v. slow & rough going & there was always the  fear of the car,
crippled as she was conking. After each big bump we breathed a sigh of relief. Walter’s endurance was truly praiseworthy.
 The mirages had appeared early in the morning & consequently the day was hotter than yesterday. It is trying tiring in the middle of the day here.
Everything got hot-the drink itself being warm & distasteful.  However we eventually sat down to our home-made dinner,
bread, sardines, tinned fruit & whisky. We shared the whisky with our friends and, feeling

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Cheered but too weary to appreciate the fact that we were safely across the desert, we each repaired to our native hut for the night.
We had now entered the Tropics and this was my first night in a native hut in a kraal.

Weather:- F.h. Slightly overcast before & during sunrise
Mileage :- Day 362.5m. Total 4693.0m

March 22nd  Dep Tabankort at 6.40h.  The piste was good and we made good going till running into a sandy patch where the track was obliterated
we lost the way and got stuck in the sand. We had to unload & eventually got the car out of the drift by deflating the back tyres and reversing over planks.
We regained the piste just as the bus which had gone past was returning to look for us. We now followed hard on his trail till the autovac choked.
Again the bus returned. They were determined to see us right and I can only say that it

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is the unremittingly attention and help of the Transsaharienne which makes it comparatively safe & simple to cross the Sahara.
In our case they did everything possible to help us, and I shall always remember with deep gratitude both the company and its members.
 We reached Gao without further mishap at 11.30h. Remarkable feature-the car never boiled throughout the trip.

Weather :- Sultry
Mileage :- Day 125.0m. Total 4798.0m

March 23-25th  Overhaul, rest, refit &c at Gao. Met Prince Bibesco.

(Notes: According to the book, Prince Bibesco (p.58): ‘…Prince Bibesco of the Belgian royal house turned up and created quite a stir. He was flying home from the Belgian Congo…

However according to Google and Wikipedia he was a Romanian diplomat born and brought up in France who married the daughter of Lord Asquith (former PM) in the society wedding of 1919.)

March 26th  Left Gao at 5.40h and soon got onto a v. bad road, loose sand & track ill-defined.  For about 50 miles the going was v. arduous
and twice Walter had to get out & shove to keep the car moving while I hung on, desperately trying to keep the revs up
enough to keep moving at all. Towards the end of this stretch

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we came across a Transsaharienne lorry which had been stuck for over 24 hours, (added by arrow ‘Driver thought we were aeroplane’)
(The book explains the aeroplane incident. Apparently the bush was dense enough to hide their approach and because the car made a lot of noise
the lorry guys thought that a plane was approaching and so looked skywards and did not see the car coming.)
having had puncture and no pump.  We lent them ours and proceeded.  The run was uneventful to Niamey, passing though lush country.
 We reached the Transsaharienne Hotel at Niamey at 18.30h. & were greeted by a big cheery fellow one Tainder,
who spoke perfect English & miracle of miracles produced iced Carlsberg.  Paradise!

Weather:- Sultry.  A few drops of rain.
Mileage :- Day 300.0m.  Total 5098.0m.

Arrival at Niamey

March 27th  Vaender had informed us that it was necessary to have our passports stamped here.  We handed these in on arrival and he said they would be returned
by 9 oclock this morning.  This being the case he insisted on us having a good night’s sleep-with tea at 7.30. we talked with him
till after midnight.  In the morning Walter discerned that the spare

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wheel support was loose and required rewelding.  This was done well and astonishingly quickly while we had breakfast.  However, with repacking &c it was 10.35
before we set out.  We had a hot run to Dogondutshi (19.00h) during which we contracted several slow punctures.  At ‘Dontchi we were hospitably received
by the Chef de Cercle who entertained us to dinner.  Walter had got a touch of sun & could eat nothing.  He was also besieged by mosquitoes.

Mileage:- Day 181m. Total 5279.0

March 28th  They had no petrol at Doutchi but assured us of supplies at Birnin-n’Konni.  We left Doutchi at 7.35h. & had a straight run to Birnin-n’Konni.
There we were informed that the local supply had run out but that in 3 or 4 days the camel train carrying fresh stock would arrive.
However after some palaver we managed to get 2 tins from the government stock after the Resident had

Page 59 (TWO page 59s!!)

been told of our long trip.  Probably his sense of ‘Vive le Sport’ actuated him to generosity.  Thus furnished afresh with the vital liquid we carried on.
Walter was better now, though he had spent a sleepless night in the resthouse at Doutchi, having been plagued by the mosquitoes.
Feeling better he also felt hungry so we decided to lunch at Madawa. Arrived at this place we saw 2 British cars an Armstrong & a Ford.
We were soon talking to Maj. Anderson big game hunter of Kenya, & 3 Nigerian officials on their way to England via the route we had traversed.
In the 2 hours conservation which ensued our lunch was forgotten.  We pressed onto Maradi.  En route we shot a guinea fowl each.
Tired and hungry we reached Maradi.  Campings yes?  “No Food” “Food.  Not possible?  Ye Gods.  We decided to make Katsina,
but first tried to eat some very salt bully beef.  We reached Katsina at 22.00h (G.M.T).  Nigerian time is

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one hour ahead of Greenwich so everyone had turned in.  We roused the A.D.O. who gave us a MacConnachy each & some beer.
We camped outside the resthouse and Walter rigged up our mosquito net over a deck chair.  I being apparently immune from the mosquitoes,
lay on coconut mats & a rug with a coat as a pillow, under a tree.

Mileage:- Day 320m Total 5599.0m

 March 29th  I woke up to see a nigger squatting a yard or two away.
“Good morning sah” he says.
“Good morning.”
“Me daily cook.  What you desire”
This sounded very good but his English ceased there.  He spoke Haussa only.  We could only make him understand enough to bring water, milk & bread.
We had to wait till lunch at Kano before we had our first proper meal and Kano brought

us back to England.  Lunch and Tennent’s beer (iced) & a little bungalow with 2 beds for our home.
Good roads in Nigeria.
Times:- Dep. Katsina 10.20h Arr Kano 13.40h
Mileage.:-  Day 107m. Total 5706m.

At Kano we met Maj. Anderson’s wife & friends.  A couple of big hearty Amazons.
Car being overhauled & springs strengthened at Joe Allens.  Car dubbed Morris Minor mail owing to number of letters carried.
 

March 30th

Per S.S. “Accia”
A.G.Ex.1933 Railway Guest House,
Despatch No.7 Kano.
Nigeria.
March 30th 1933
Dear Dudley,

Taking up the tale there is not quite so much to relate this time.

We left Gao on the 26th and almost immediately struck a sticky patch.  Imagine 50 miles of loose sand and in places no indication of the way; the wind having blown sand
into & over previous tyre marks.  We groaned along in second, & twice, when in bottom we were only saved from sticking by Walter jumping out & pushing,
while I hung on grimly & coaxed the engine.  During this arduous business we were able to aid a Transsaharienne lorry
which had sustained punctures & had no pump.  We lent them ours.  They had been there for over 24 hours, and hailed us with joy.  The native driver thought that L???????
Was an aeroplane, our open exhaust making such a row.  There he was starring at the sky when low & behold a Morris Minor appears from behind a Berberis tree.  Priceless.

We reached Niamey to find a very cheery Frenchman who welcomed us with  - The Gods!- iced beer.

Next day we got to Dogondoutchi where the Chef de Cercle, sole white man in the place welcomed us and giving us primitive quarters in the rest house, entertained us to a good dinner.
Walter had a touch of the sun which prevented him from eating so we doctored him & packed him off to bed.  He was much better in the morning though ravaged with mosquito bites.
These little fellows seem to leave me in disgust.  I’m probably impregnated with nicotine.  Anyway they leave me severely alone.

On the 28th we stopped at  Birni N’Konni to get petrol but found that the local supply had run out, but, we were informed, it was quite alright for was there not a camel train
even then approaching with fresh stock.  Eh bien! In four or perhaps five days we should have as much petrol as our desires.  But, we argued, we must get on
– to Kano – to NAIROBI -  AV CAP “Av Cap” they echoed, one must see the Resident.  One saw the Resident & he,doubtless feeling the two Frenchmans’ love of “Le sport” graciously allowed us
a case (8galls) from the Government store.   So with cries of “Vive le sport” & Vive la France we carried on.

By this time Walter’s rapidly returning appetite & my ever present one demanded lunch.  So at Madaona we stopped at the Chef de Cercle & there beheld two British cars.
In two minutes we were talking to four Government officials returning to England by the route we had come.  In the following two hours our lunch seemed to get forgotten
& as food at these places is given by courtesy & hospitality we could hardly demand it. So hungrily we proceeded to Maradi only to find no food there.
On again & into British Territory, reaching Katsina at 22.00(GMT) or 23.00h (Nigerian time); everyone in bed, so we had to rouse the A.D.O. who showed us the rest house
& gave us some Macbannachy & beer.   The rest house was very stuffy & there were no beds, so Walter rigged up the mosquito net over a deck chair while
I slept in a rug under a tree alongside the car.  These rest houses provide a cook who produces on demand, eggs & so forth.  Sure enough at seven oclock I woke to see
a native squatting a couple of yards away -  “Good morning, sah” says he, “me daily cook.  What you desire?  This sounded good but it turned out that he had exhausted his stock of English.
I had learnt a word or two of Haussa so we got water, bread & milk & this staving off the pangs of hunger departed for Kano where, after a drive along an excellent road,
we arrived to find a delightful haven.  How good it is to meet Britons again & to have bacon & eggs.

We expect to proceed on April1st for Nairobi.  All goes well car being overhauled while we rest and sweat.  It is 92O in the shade as I write (17.30) Phew!
Mail ???? holds good as originally made.  For all communications after Johannesburg address to c/o Seahurst Hotel, St.James, Capetown – until further notice.

Cheerio from both of us

Yours sincerely

A. Cameron Gilg.

31st March
Kano
Nigeria.

Darling Bunpuzzle,

It was delightful to have a letter again.  God knows when you’ll get this as the mail went yesterday. Damm!

You will have got all the news via Iris, I expect.  We are pressing on now & I have so many people to write to that it’s difficult to get them all in so I hit upon the device
of sending official despatches to Richmond Jones.  I have 37 people on my mail list & at each stop we make one or two friends & promise to write.  Hopeless!
And then it’s so hot here that one’s energy is soon used up.  But its v. nice & such decent people. (Hold on while I go & see that dog).

The Sahara crossing was damned hard work & we were glad to get across but it was very interesting.  The desert is a terribly cruel place which gives man nothing
except a sense of insignificance.  One is glad to see life again.  Here for instance there are such jolly little lizards which scuttle all over the place at incredible speed.
I tossed a lighted match near one & he made a dart at it and oh what a shock poor Percy got & how he hurried home to tell the folks.
We then tried them with cake which they enjoyed, though Beelzebub was rather shy.  Beelzebub is a great big lazy fellow who sticks to the horizontal, but, in contrast to the others sober clothing,
he has joined the bright dress movement and wears a natty yellow collar, a bright blue coat, grey waistcoat, and yellow tights a tail of varied hue.

At Gao we met Prince Bibesca who gave us a letter to deliver to the Governor at Niamey.  And so I shook hands with a real Prince.  Nasty man though.

We are both very fit and the car is holding up despite incredible roads (?).  Motoring in England now would seem absurd.  We found it very muddling changing to the left when entering Nigeria.

All being well we hope to reach Nairobi in about 3 weeks.  We have settled very well into a routine and have every hope of getting right through.

Give Biddy a big hug for me, and all the best to Ralph & all the entourage, and to yourself the love and affection of

African Alan

April 1stGood time at Kano (Railway Guest House) Made several friends-Alan Anderson of Dunlopp’s & wife, Konstam of the Vacuum Oil Co., Blum,
an Aerican writer, Metcale of the N.R. Caterers &c.&c. Some good games of Rummy and poker. Saw half an hours cricket. Native city. V.hot.
 

April 2nd Dep. Kano at 6.45h. At first we had a good road, but after Wudil it deteriorated badly, there being patches of sand ploughed up by busy traffic.
There were huge ruts

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into which the car sank & we ploughed on through axle deep. W had halted to fill with petrol when Walter noticed that one of the nuts of a front spring bolt
had gone and that others were loose.  This was because of the extra leaf we had had fitted at Kano.  We proceeded via Azare to Potiskum without further trouble
though we felt anxiety about the loose nuts. We reached Potiskum at 17.10h, & getting an apathetic reception from the D.O., had to fend entirely for ourselves.
The rest house lies on the verge of the village which makes it interesting. We managed to get hold of a good boy who had travelled a good deal & talked good English.
Through his help we were able to get eggs (10 for 2d), milk, tea & biscuits, and a sort of cake like bread. We having fed, after a fashion he suggested bringing a mattress.
We readily agreed, whereupon he brought mattress, sheets & pillows.  We were apparently in ‘bad country’ so we had

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a policeman to guard us & our belongings while we slept.  This was compulsory.  There was theft every night in the town & even murder.  These crimes were the work of local bushmen.
Undisturbed however by these rumours we lay down on our luxurious bed.  I was soon lulled to sleep by the medley of sounds, but Walter slept but poorly-so he told me in the morning.
Much hotter to-day. Rain seen in the distance. A few peals of thunder.

Mileage:- Day 189m. Total 5895m.

April 3rdAfter a breakfast of tea, coffee and biscuits we left Potiskum at 6.55h Along a road better than yesterday’s but badly corrugated. It was reasonably negotiable at 35m.p.h. Below this speed it was terribly bumpy. Still proceeding through the same interminable bush. The monotony of the surroundings & the heat make one sleepy and bad tempered. We feared

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another cold reception at Maiduguri (arr 12.35h) but had a pleasant surprise.  We were greeted by one Westmacott who had heard of our impending arrival
and whisked us off to have drinks & then insisted on us taking lunch.  It came out that he is an Old Haileyburean so that everything was fine.  He put us on to Sirr
who had promised to attend to our spring bolts & to the dynamo which is not charging at al. Dynamo trouble is a thing we dread.  Hope it’s nothing serious as it may mean good bye to the trip.
Any delay might let us in for the rains between here & the Belgian Congo.  We repaired to the canteen (Niger Co.) & got supplies of foods &c.  Here we met Elliot of the Company
who took us to his house and gave us tea. We spent an interesting hour or so & then returned to ‘set up house’ for the night.  Westmacott told us that Maiduguri is the hottest spot in Nigeria.

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I can well believe it.  It touched 114 shade today.  Sustained one puncture.  Walter busy on car for 2 hrs.

Mileage :- Day 145m. Total 6040

We were just about to prepare for grub, when Westmacott drove up & took us to the Residency.  The Resident had very kindly asked us to have a drink with him.
There were several v.good fellows present.  All had been playing Polo.  A very pleasant hour or so & then grub & bed.

April 4th  We were on our way to the workshops when we were given a note from Westmacott inviting us to breakfast at 9.  W accepted & proceeded to the workshop.
The Sirr greeted us.  We were amazed at the equipment of the place . Here is an outpost of the Empire (I use a much hackneyed phrase) with every facility for engineering-electricity
modern machinery, every kind of tool, spare parts for motors &c. S irr was v. helpful & kind & we soon had our spring bolts attended to.
The dynamo proved more fractious and we were still at it by breakfast

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time.  We adjourned in a fine new Hillman commercial, (Sirr driving) & taking Ergell with us.  We had jolly breakfast with Westmacott, & then Ergell called for us.
We returned to the workshop where after much sweating & cursing we discovered a defective fuse—thus, as so often is the case, the trouble lay in a simple cause
which could have been remedied in 2 shakes.  Ah well!!!  After slaking our thirst at Sirr’s house we took our leave of a v. good crowd at 12.35h & set out for Fort Lamy.
We saw one unique sight at Maiduguri-the Treasury garden-walled, paved & with a neat lawn & lovely flowers.  What joy to behold it.
 The road was v. bad & our time was poor.  Add to this that it was very hot & we had a puncture & realise that we were fed up at finding darkness upon us before reaching Kusseri
from which place one has to be ferried across the Shari river.  Perforce we had to put up at the rest house.  We turned in after sardines, coffee and tinned fruit,
knowing that we had 2 punctured tyres to mend in the

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morning.  V. cheerful.  We were now back in French territory.  Arr Kusseri 19.15h. Nearly ran over a snake near a bush fire.

Mileage :- day 160m. Total 6200m

Walter Kay with gun and the Minor looking remarkably clean

5th April  Wrestled with punctures between 6h. and 7h.  Walter felt rather done in as he had had practically no sleep for 3 nights.  We crossed the ferry to Fort Lamy
and had some slight difficulty in finding a place to stay.  Eventually we reached the Mairie  & I was just struggling to get back to French again when a good Samaritan appeared
—one M. Macropulos , a trader who, after we had paid our dues & filled in forms & had passports stamped, took us to Mr Annassis a storekeeper,
once of Paterson, Zaohomis.  We both took to these gentlemen immediately.  We got real hospitality.  We were given drinks and were asked to stay with Annassis,
instead of putting up at the resthouse.  Unfortunately Macropulos had to leave as he was hurrying

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to complete a tour before the rains.  We had a splendid day with Amassis & both felt much better.  Thunder & lightning in evening & a few drops of rain.  Bit of music.

April 6th  A Muslim holiday.  Saw an interesting procession but was not able to film it, not having time to get the camera. Damn!
Got everything fixed up inc. more punctures, or rather, a faulty valve.  Got food & petrol & saying good-bye to Annassis—damned good chap
—set off once more at 9.50h.  Not too good a road.  A mile or two ferry crossing shortly after leaving Ft. Lamy—this time by motor instead of man power.
And so back to the left bank of the Shari.  Road rather poor.  We halted under a tree at midday but found it hotter than driving.  Not a breath stirring.
Reached Mogrum at 15h.  A large village, entirely native.  Were greeted by the chief & at the resthouse had a large audience during the repair of the

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inevitable punctures.  Saw several crocs in the Shari on the banks of which Mogrum stands.  Most picturesque camp yet.  Natives v. attentive.
One piccaninny v. bright & willing.  Helped pump up tyre, wash dishes &c.  Chop consisted of baked beans, bread, peas, & coffee made with goats-milk.
One gets used to sleeping under this lovely African moon with all the myriad sounds of life from the natives lulling one to slumber.
We are right in the heart of Africa now.  The scenery is more interesting-there being more vegetations-trees bigger.  Heat terrific as the rains approach.
Even the natives feel it.  Longed to bathe but unsafe because of crocs.  No filtered water here.  Must put whiskey or lime-juice in it to be safe for drinking.

Mileage:- Day-80m. Total. 6280

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April 7th  We both had a splendid nights sleep & rose full of beans at 5.45.  Left at 6.15.  Saw many guinea fowl. Walter shot a couple while I was driving.
Presently we began to see many grey monkeys. Proceeded slowly over bumpy road. Got two more of the eternal punctures, one right in the heat of the day,
every thing was almost too hot to touch. Ran short of water & got some dubious stuff at a village.  Mixed with whisky one got a glassful of what looked like
orangeade mixed with milk, quite opaque.  We reached Miltu at 15.15h. with a faint hope of finding a white man resident with a stock of drink.
We were disappointed but, after reaching a well built resthouse we discovered a native camion driver who with the guardian of the resthouse mended the punctures.
I remembered also that we had some packs of lemonade crystals, and so we had an alternative to whisky. We had thought to have used up all our lime juice.
We hadn’t been at Miltu

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long before there was a dance in progress close by.  We witnessed some of this & took some photos.  It was v. interesting to see.  The dancers were men who wore anklets
of dried vegetable shells filled with some small pellets-the whole making an effective rattle as the wearer dances.  The band consisted of two males
playing tom-toms and several women singing & clapping.  The rhythm is v. good.

Mileage:- Day 166m Total 6445m
Dinner :- Sardines, bread, guinea fowl, pears, tea.

April 8th  Dep. Miltu at 5.55h.  The road was better than on the two previous days & we made good going till 8.30h. when we halted for a snack of tinned grapefruit.
Nearing Fort Archambault the road turned v. bumpy & our progress slowed down considerably.  Passed a bridge building gang in charge of a white man, the first we had seen since leaving Ft. Lamy.
Shortly after this we crossed the Bahr Sara by ferry, & after some 15 miles of v. bumpy going reached Fort Archambault at 11.30h.  Everyone

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had ceased work but eventually we found a white man who directed us to the Tiran, erstwhile hotel but now used as a resthouse.  Luxury to us, as it has beds, chairs & tables.
Made a lunch of sardines, tinned fruit and digestive biscuits and lay down for 2 hours.  The heat was terrific, and sweat poured off one.  At 15h we engineered a bath of sorts and sallied off
in search of the stores.  This proved excellent.  We managed to get cold beer, whisky, Johnny Walker, & lime juices, as well as the usual tinned stuff.  Petrol however was awkward.
There was a Texaco pump & big bidon.  Fortunately we had a spare tin (4 gall) with us, so filled our tank, and now trust that the ‘petrol-doubtful’
at Ft. Crampel will prove to be “petrol”.

Mileage:- Day 115m. Total 6561m.

The rains draw nearer, but still hold back.  Oh! for a shower to cool us.  The car needs it badly too.

Alan Gilg and the Minor in then French Equatorial Africa

Alan Gilg with the Minor on a river ferry - probably in Chad

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 April 9th  Swell dinner last night. Soup (Bovril), Cassoulets, Pears, Beer, Biscuits & tea.  Hot water on our futile stove, as the “gardien” proved incapable.
The heat had damaged the Meta fuel & we had to keep replenishing it to get the water to boil.  A luxury to sleep on a mattress but frightfully hot night.
A cloudy morning and badly made tea.  Off at 6.30h. and had 60 miles of incessant bumping.  After that the road improved & all went well
till just after change over when the old trouble appeared after one whole days immunity-puncture; the same wheel again-near inside, always the same bloody wheel.
Somewhat cooler travelling-over-cast.  Scenery gradually getting more profuse in vegetation-everything green.  Fifty miles short of Ft. Crampel came across
the first banana palms.  Arrived Ft. Crampel 15.15h. to find the rear inside wheel going down.  Now v. sultry & both in bad temper.
Ages repairing the 2 tyres.  Couldn’t get the natives to differentiate between drinking & ordinary

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water.  Had to send note to the Commandant.  V. tired & hot turned in at 20h.
Now in the heart of primitive Africa where the natives are v. simple & dense.

Mileage:- Day 183m. Total 6744m.

April10th  Woke up at 4h. to hear rising winds & notice rapidly darkening sky.  Found Walter was awake & we agreed that the rain was due.  Walter being imprisoned in a
weirdly contrived mosquito net, I went to the car & put up side curtains & closed windscreen.  V. soon the storm came-wind, rain, lightning, thunder.
V. much cooler & had to put on a shirt.   Saw he Commandant at 6.45 & he advised us of the driest route to Bambari in place of the AA route via Ft. Sibut - a saving of 70 m.
Good, but we had banked on refuelling at Ft. Sibut in order to avoid carrying the big bidons which were the only petrol tins at Ft. Crampel.  There

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was nowhere on the shorter route where we could refuel.  Eh bien-the Commandant gives us a note to the Caparal at K. Mbre who has charge of the private official supply to let us have
10 litres-sufficient to enable us by starting with a full tank to reach Bambari.  And so, with the good wishes of the helpful Commandant we sallied forth in the pouring rain.
There was still some lightning & thunder.  The car was pulling badly & we had only just turned to the left at the fork 6 miles out when the engine gave a despairing cough & sat down.
The rain was coming down in sheets as we wrestled with the refractory petrolift.  At last we got it going & wet through carried on.  The road was good and when the rain ceased at 9.15
we began to cheer up.  We had appreciated the rain when it began, but five solid hours soon make African roads soggy.  We reached K. Mbre & duly got

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our tank filled.  After this it was a good run through many villages inhabited by primitive people who came out & cheered us as we passed.  Their dogs were confounded nuisances;
we ran over one & gave many hens the fright of their lives-also goats.  In parts the scenery was almost junglelike-v. dense green undergrowth & tall trees, with little hills
where we could see over undulating country, all blue in the returning sunshine.  V. beautiful & a great relief from the thousands of miles of desert & dry, flat uninteresting bush.
There were many bright-hued butterflies.  Some cotton growing.  We were nearing Bambari when the usual happened.  Rear outside tyre flat as a pancake.
There must be a hoodoo on the damned thing.  We crossed the Kwango river by ferry and so reached Bambari at 15.15h.  We were stocking up at a good stores
(had to take extra petrol in a carboy as no tins less than 36l. again)

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when in breezed Greaves, an Englishman trading with a Chevrolet lorry.  We soon got together & are now cocooned in the empty house of a friend of his, with natives to mend the eternal puncture
& actually someone to wait on us.  A small world-Greaves is cousin to friends of Walter’s.  He knows Manchester & Liverpool districts.  He has had a lot of bad luck but remains cheery & is a king of fellows.
(in Walter’s writing in pencil?? Alan saw “ce sacre Smith la”. Or Alas saw “ce sacre Smith la”.)

Mileage:- Day 155m. Total 6899m.
 Climate at Bambari delightful.

April 11th  Walter off to bed early, but Greaves & I stayed up talking till 4 a.m.  Greaves was going in our way so decided to join forces.  Went over to pick up his passenger-M. Dujean of Cotanaf,
who was staying with Mr. Demidoff-a typical pre-war Russian who runs a cotton ginnery.  Found this v. interesting, having once been in the cotton trade.
Demidoff was v. hospitable & gave us all a good chop.

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We had bananas among other things-these being our first fresh fruit for a long time since Algiers I think.  The procession left Bambari at 16h, the camion leading.  We made slow going.
Presently halted at a village & bought a pig (15fr), & hen (2fr) & eggs.  Proceeded a little further & camped at the next village where bloody good chop.  Greaves has good boys.

Mileage:- Day 22m. Total 6921

 Greaves’ dog –Matabeesh- travels everywhere with him.  V. faithful-swam the river at Bambari to look for him once.

April 12th  Broke camp late & made leisurely progress.  A long halt for chop-excellent liver from the pig being the ‘piece de resistance’.
Better going in afternoon till we came to a ‘bac’ (ferry).  We had just crossed & got under cover before a brief but heavy storm broke.
We profited by this to mend a puncture which occurred while passing onto the bac.  We were now about 75m. from Bambari, and the

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storm having ceased made another 30 miles before camping.  We proceeded some distance after dark as the resthouses, previously plentiful,
seemed to have become non existent.  However we eventually found one & devoured saucisson, pork, bread & jam.

 Mileage:- Day:- 86m. Total 7007m.

April 13th  Parted company with the camion as we wanted to make Bangassou early& our speed was much greater than that of the lorry.
We were both v. keen to reach a hotel where bath & shave &c would be possible-the last place being Kano.
 A regretful good bye to Greaves & Dujean & we were off along a good but v. undulating road-incessantly descending to little streams & then rising again.
The whole area is a mass of rivers & streams-all tributaries of the Congo.  Vegetation v. luxuriant & abundant but not much forest though plenty of palms-
the coconut palm coming more into evidence every mile.  We had to traverse two

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bacs & sustained yet another puncture-needless to say still the same wheel.  Nearing Bangassou we noticed that the native villages were much more prosperous looking
& the huts better built-many had fences & an attempt at a garden.  Bangassou itself proved to be quite a large place boasting gardens & a racecourse.
It stands on the Banji (crossed out to Mbomu) river which is part of the boundary between French Equatorial Africa & the Belgian Congo-a broad river
having many tributaries but itself one.  The Congo must be a mighty river.  There used to be two hotels at Bangassou but both are closed.  A storekeeper directed us
to a place & told us he would bring the key for a room at five o’clock.  It was then three so we unloaded the car & started to do odd jobs.  At five o’clock we were informed
that our lodging was elsewhere.  Fuming we piled everything in again & dossed down in a small hut.  This appeared to be well guarded for taking a short stroll before

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turning in I was challenged by a corporal & a moment later nearly collided with a sentry on patrol.

Mileage:- Day:- 125m. Total 7132m.

April 14th  Having lost a few hours sleep the last 2 or 3 nights by sitting up talking with Greaves, we both slept long, so that by the time we had got petrol
and had breakfasted (army tea, bread & jam) it was 8h.  We left French territory finally & beheld across the river the Belgian Congo, the land of reputed good roads
& strict customs. It is difficult to enter even if one is only passing through as we are.  Before leaving England there was a great palaver over visas,
health certificates & good conduct certificates.  We landed from the ferry & made the 45 mile run to Monga, the customs station.  A very pretty little place with rich vegetation
& a pleasant river with-oh! refreshing spectacle & for us long unseen by us-a sizeable waterfall,

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not high but wide & broken up into many courses.   Just before entering Monga we came to a barrier across the road.  At our approach a sous-officier emerged
and took his place on our running board while a soldier opened the gate.  The corporal guided us to the Douane where we spent an hour and a half.
To use our cameras & arms in the country it was necessary to pay high taxes.  We could have these taxes refunded on leaving provided our cameras & arms were sealed.
It didn’t seem worth paying 2000 francs for a few days so we had them sealed.  We also filled up many forms cheerfully enough as the thought of he hotel at Bando
only 123 kms. distant filled us with joyful anticipation.  At last it only remained to pay.  I put down three 1000 franc notes-two Algerian, one West African.
The official would not accept them, neither would he accept Nigerian or

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English money-all perfectly good money.  We reasoned & argued.  Was there not someone who could change it?  At Bangassou, yes.  What, return all the way to Bangassou.
That is all you can do.  Couldn’t we go on to Bando or Buta & pay our dues there.  No.  We had passed many customs but never before had we met with such
unreasoning pig-headedness.  We cursed & swore for at least a quarter of a hour, & then the douanier said-“What are you going to do?”  Insult to injury.
We saw no alternative but to return to Bangassou.  This meant almost certainly a whole day wasted, certainly having to cross the ferry twice, re-enter French territory,
persuade the Commissaire to change our money, spend another night in the grim hut & waste petrol too.  It would be simpler for a Frenchman to have to return
to Calais from Dover because he has no English money-if one can

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imagine such a happening.  We were just going, feeling completely furious when the tin god who was merely a paid servant condescended to say that there was another white man
who might change our money.  We repaired therefore to the N.A.H.V. (Dutch Co) & explained our plight to M. Colette.  He listened attentively but, in my fury my French,
normally bad, had gone to pieces entirely, and he understood me to say that we needed French money in order to enter at Bangassou.
 Calming myself I explained more coherently & he tackled our problem.  He told us that the gentleman was an underling in temporary power, that the real douanier
was a good fellow on leave at the moment; that aforesaid underling was known to be unhelpful bully who did all in his power to hinder people.
Also that all natives are encumbered with such similar people, who misuse their trust.

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M. Colette thus insisted on us sharing chop, it now being midday.  He sent a note to Mr. Bakke, a Norwegian missionary, stationed close by, who might be able to help us out.
He, Colette would have been only too delighted to help he had not enough money.  While we awaited a reply we had chop & Colette entertained us with many stories
of ‘la chasse’ of which he is a keen follower & skilled practitioner.  The time passed swiftly & pleasantly & then a note came from Mr. Bakke-yes he could change our money
provided he could rechange it in Bangassou.  O.K.  We sent a note back asking him to come down.  Presently he came with his wife & their children a boy & a girl both looking v. healthy.
He gave us 2020 Belgian francs, promising to remit us the balance to Nairobi.  Damned decent.  We all talked for some time, until we discerned it was nearly five o’clock.  Both Colette and

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the missionary & his wife wanted us to stay the night at their respective places but we felt that we ought to push on.  We promised however to take our car to the mission to be photographed.
We said good bye to Colette, xxxxxx & real white man, & went to the Douane again.  Our kind official, received our money.  We somehow kept our tempers & left him
under the impression that we had been all the way to Bangassou & back; alas we left gum all over his desk-so clumsy of me to knock it over.
 A pleasant chat & coffee at the mission, & after thanking them warmly.  Good Friday a really good Friday we drove through the night to Bando, where supper & then bed
(yes, a real be & bath) at the S.C.V.G. hotel.

Mileage:- Day 119m. Total 7251m.

April 15th  1st shave for a fortnight.  Went round to the Dutch Co. to change money & found a v. decent Dutchman, van der Meer.  Walter busy on car-his energy is boundless
and his attentions to the car unremitting.  I wrote up log, made up accounts & read up on next stage, overhauled kit &c.
 In evening jolly time with v.d. Meer & friends.

April 16th  A pleasant run through to Buta.  At Likati & thence onwards we noticed the natives to be v. civilised-practically all wearing the clothes of natives in the towns.
At Buta put up at Mack hotel. V. nice.  Met Brecknell of the B.A.T.  With Brecknell & Rauch to Stanleyville-Buta soccer match (S won 2-0).
Afterwards met the Wykes’s & several others.

Mileage:- Day 125m. Total 7376m

April 17th  Bank holiday as in England.  Cinema in hotel in evening.  Saw an okapi at the mission.  Incident of clerk who asked if L’pool had a P.O.

April 18th  Helped Brecknell with some figures.  Walter on car.  By stroke of luck the local Dunlop agent had some tyres of our size,
so we bought 2 “Forts” & scrapped our old tyres.  On recommendation of Brecknell, Wykes & Rauch we have changed our course for the Buta-Kampala stage,
as it would be a sin to miss seeing the Ruwenzori and Kivu districts when we passed near.  We therefore are travelling to-morrow in company with Brecknell in his Chev.
He is taking Mrs Wykes & her daughter as passengers.

April 19th  After a lot of delay we left in advance of the faster Chev., at 8.30h.  There had been heavy rain in the night & it was now a cool, grey morning.
V. pleasant.  Made good going despite 3 punctures, the last being across the Aruwimi, a broad river,

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first explored by Stanley.  We lunched at Banalia just after crossing this river, & waited for the Chev.  It didn’t turn up  for two hours as they had sustained a broken spring
& had turned back  for repairs.  We left almost as soon as they arrived but they caught us up at pontoon No. 4 (R. Lindi).  One more pontoon & then the Chev.
Went first to guide us into Stanleyville, a sizeable town, well built & standing at the point where the Lualaba becomes the Congo.
Staying at the Hotel de Chutes (so called because of the Stanley falls nearby).  During the day we saw a dance performed
by male natives wearing banana leaf skirts.   Much flora:- Palms of all kinds, mangoes, aba-cotton ferns, calla lilies, hibiscus, limes.
In many palms there were ferns growing out of the old growth.

 Mileage:- Day 210m. Total 7586 m.

April 20th At Stanleyville.  Shopping.  Chop in evening with Smith of Sidec, & Brecknell at Smith’s place.  Discovered he had been at Bowdon College.  Amazing.
(Bowdon College - Alan was bought up in Hale, Bowdon, Altrincham suburbs of SW Manchester.)
 We weighed ourselves –exactly the same weight 65 kilos (abt 10 st 4 lbs.).  Last weighed in Bordeaux, when Walter was 10 st 12 lbs & I was 10 st. 13 lbs.
 Decided to use our cameras & pay the duty.

April21st  At Stanleyville.  Made arrangements for the cavalcade to-morrow.  Morris, Chev., Buick (Brecknell), Buick Perrigeux, is the order of starting out.
Perrigeux is en route for Nairobi.  I am taking Clarke of the H.C.B. in the Morris.  He is making his way back to England.
 Saw Chopo falls, rather fine.   Just missed being caught in brief but violent storm while still out in car.

April 22nd  Clarke & I set off at 8.00h, being followed shortly by Walter driving Brecknell’s Chevrolet & later by Brecknell, Mrs Wykes & her daughter

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in a big Buick which has to be taken up country. Just after Brecknell came Perrigeux & friend in another Buick.
 We made good going in the morning, despite 3 ferries.  The chev. Caught us up at the 3rd ferry & we let it get ahead. A little later we halted
and chopped on sandwiches, biscuits, & soda water. C ontinuing on our way we ran into a storm.  We halted at a village while it was
at its worst and go half a dozen boiled eggs.  We found the Chev. waiting at the 4th. ferry & thenceforward continued with  it to Avakubi where we refuelled
It was now twilight and by the time we had crossed the 5th ferry & reached the hotel at Niania it was quite dark.
 Had nearly finished chop before the 2 Buicks turned up.  Broken springs a fallen tree & a long halt at a mission had delayed them.

 Mileage:- Day 210m. Total 7796 m.

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April 23rd  Left with Clarke at 8.45h. and traversed the usual Congo country, thick bush.  Crossed one ferry before lunch, when the Chev. & Buick caught us up.
Perrigeux passed us in his Buick.  Lunch was v. poor-one egg each, & bread & butter.  We had paid 12 fr. each at the hotel for this!!!
 Refuelled at Mombasa and the road became bad; steep & winding with many bumps.  Caught up with Perrigeux at the second ferry, and shortly afterwards emerged
rom the Congo Forest on to a tableland.  We had been drinking steadily all day, and were now at about 3000 feet.  At first we saw foothills only, until on breasting a rise
I spotted with unbounded joy a vast range of mountains wreathed in clouds.  These were the Ruwenzori.  Oh bliss, to see mountains again.  The rest of the run was v. pleasant-
through Irumu and then through the cool of approaching night

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up & up till we came to a road fork.  We were bound for Bunia-but no such name appeared on the signpost.  We decided on the right hand road & continued to beyond K.56
at which post Brecknell had told us Bunia was.  But no Bunia did we see.  We turned back & proceeding up the left hand road found Walter just setting out to look for us.
They had gone past while we were on the other road.  We were taken to the Seduc where Mr. & Mrs. Blake gave us a cordial reception & drinks.
Thence to the Hotel Grobler kept by Mr & Mrs Grobler, charming Boers.  Followed a riotous evening.  The pub was full of people in from outlying farms &c,
for Sunday night.  Everyone seemed to be tight and there was nearly a rough house when one Corsican threw a glass at a Belgian,
subsequently upsetting a table full of bottles & glasses.

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Grobler managed to restore order.  Chop was a v. disturbed affair, there being too many people for the number of plates, cutlery &c.
The whole evening was like a slice out of “Alice in Wonderland”.

 Mileage:- Day 235 m. Total 8031m.

April 24th  At Bunia.  We were all “morning after the night before-ish”.  In morning to Irumu.  An afternoon sleep.  In evening to the Corsican place at Bogoro.
Saw Lake Albert on way.  Some good views of mountains.

April 25th  At Bunia.  Owing to its altitude this place has a good climate.  It stands some 4000 ft. above sea level, and all round is good cattle country.
Cabbages, lettuces, tomatoes, &c. grow well.  There is a species of fir too.  In morning Walter drove Blakes’ Pontiac to Fataki
to take Mrs. Wykes daughter there to school.  Also went Mrs.

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Wykes, Mrs Blake & Clarke.  I had a touch of neuralgia so took 3 Aspros & went to sleep.  At noon Brecknell hauled me out for a drink & we met Engelbrecht
a damned decent chap.  He is v. keen to start an air service in this area so we arranged to go to his place on Thursday so that Walter can talk it over with him.
I expect Walter will be pleased at prospect of a decent job.  He is due back from Fataki shortly.
 In evening with Brecknell to escarpment near Bogoro.

April. 26th Clarke, Brecknell & I to Bambu in a.m. Naval combats.

April 27th  The four of us to Engelbrecht’s place at Butemba-via Irumi & Beni. Chev, & Buick for delivery at Butemba.

April 28th  Walter & Engelbrecht discussed plans for proposed air service.  Returned to Bunia in Chev.  Saw Ruwenzori, though most of it in clouds.  Poker, golf in evening.

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 April 29th  A regretful good-bye to the Groblers and a dash to Kasenyi to catch the Lake Albert boat.  Brecknell took Clarke in the Chev.  Customs a complete contrast to coming into the Congo.
Nothing looked at and our deposit refunded in full despite the cameras having been used.  We all had tea on board.  Felt elated to be on British soil again.  Fine boat- the “Robert Coryndon.”
V. sorry to leave Brecknell.  Sincerely hope we meet again.

Mileage:- Day 30m. Total. 8061m.

 Leaving Kasenyi at 19.15h. crossed the lake obliquely to Butiaba, where arrived about 2 or 3 o'clock on Sunday morning.  Slept on & breakfasted on board.  Car towed behind on lighter.

Mileage:- Lake passage 74m. Total 8135m.

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Times: Left Butiaba 9.50h
At Kampala 16.10h.  Lunched on biscuits purchased at Hoima

 April 30th  Said good-bye to Clarke, though expecting to see him again at Jinja.  Had to pay a deposit of three hundred shillings on car.  Hadn’t got it---only Belgian money.  Quandary.
Then an American turned up in a Plymouth who was “en route” for the Congo and had 450sh. deposit refund due to him.  We exchanged money & all was well.
 Proceeded by excellent roads to Kampala where put up at Imperial Hotel.  Here we met Miller of V.O.C who was enthusiastic.  Jolly evening.
 Natives & every thing vastly superior to anywhere since N. Africa.

 Mileage:- Day. 165m. Total:- 8300m.

May 1st In morning to V.O.C.  Interviewed by editor of ‘Uganda Herald’.  Miller v. decent and wired & phoned ahead to the V.O.C. agents between Kampala & Nairobi.

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Left after lunch.  Excellent road to Jinja.  Stopped to admire Nile bridge.  We have now seen 3 of Africa’s great rivers.  In time for tea at Ibis Hotel, Jinja.  Delightful place kept by a charming lady & her daughter.
Met Holmes of Nairobi who is showing an American called Bellows round E. Africa.  Holmes took us to the Ripon Falls-source of the Victoria Nile (discovered by Speke 28/9/62).
Watched fish trying to jump falls.  Many water fowl.  Some crocs. & hippos.  Hotel is on a bay of Lake Victoria.
 In evening-Corinthian Bagatelle & Ping Pong

Mileage:- Day 54 m. Total 8354 m.

May 2nd  Left Jinja at 10.45h.  Good road to Tororo where we had beer.  After Tororo road definitely bad.  In one place just after Malikisi, road had collapsed.
Found a way round through the bush.

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Ran into heavy rain.  Road rather better so we got further into Kenya.  Elgon & Marakwet obscured by clouds.  Climbing steadily but slowly, Walter feared for our petrol
but we had enough, & after negotiating some v. bad corrugation we reached Eldoret at 20.20h. (Eldoret Hotel).

 Mileage:- Day 210m. Total. 8564m.

At Eldoret, Gilg and Kay met up with this 1932 model Minor tourer.   Notice the handy bathing facilities!

May 3rd  Round to V.O.C., thence to Morris agent-Mr Engleton who is a King of men.  Gave us tea & insisted on us staying to lunch.  He has a v.nice, v. English home with a garden
that would be lovely if it wasn’t for the drought; the rains are some 6 weeks overdue, & consequently, the coffee crop – Kenya’s one remaining sound thing in the crisis – is nearly ruined.
 Tore ourselves away from the delightful hospitality of Engleton & his wife, &

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Slade of the V.O.C. guiding us for 2 miles, took the road for Nairobi.  Much corrugation.  Rose to 9,400 feet at Timboroa – thence by Londiani (tea), & Molo to Nakuru where docked
at Nakuru Hotel at 19.00h.  Hospitable reception & jolly evening with Maj. Gunnell (prop.), Maj. Russell, Roberts, Speke, Allen & Summers.  Many Scotsmen in Kenya much to my delight.
Even some of the railway engines have Caledonian Railway whistles.   Maj. Russell is delightful – had Walter & I summed up in 2 shakes.

 Mileage:- Day 110m. Total 8674 m.

May 4th  Met Wickham of V.O.C. L ong talk with Roberts about Kenya.  Lunch with Wickham.  Damned decent chap from Kent; is like Bulldog Drummond.
In evening he took us down to Lake Nakuru to see the amazing spectacle of literally hundreds of thousands of Flamingoes.  Also saw Hippo bones,
some fine Waterbuck.   Interesting evening talking with Wickham.

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 May 5th  Left Nakuru at 8.45h.  A perfect morning like English summer when fine.  Climbed & climbed to some 9,000 where good views of L. Nakuru, Menengai crater
(grim scene of Ross cone).  Air wonderful.  Near top a number of huge bamboos.  Presently good view of Mt. Kenya, also Aberdares.  Dropped to Thomson’s Falls which we saw,
then had lunch.  Charming hotel (Barry’s) kept by Barraclough, who did a skilful design on our car.   On to Nyeri – a v. nice little spot. S aw ostrich, & many buck of different species.
Reached Nyeri at 16.15h. & put up at delightful Outspan Hotel.  Fine vista across to Mt. Kenya.  Walked in interesting gardens – English plants, coffee banana & all manner.  Noted species of Nepeta.
 Holmes & Bellows turned up later having been nearly stranded by mud.  Had he been 2 hours later we would have been completely stuck, having no chains.  Actually we never had a drop of rain.
Warning!!  Rapidity of changes in weather & road conditions.

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Heard of man who has shot 20 Rhino since Monday (1/5/33).  Govt. contract as Rhino v. troublesome.
 Talks & games in evening.

Mileage:- Day 120m. Total 8794 m.

May 6th  Honoured with the spectacle of Mt. Kenya unveiling itself in the early morning.  1st time it was wholly visible for 3 weeks, we were told.
 Left Nyeri at 7.30h. & made good progress for some thirty-miles.  We then struck a v. bad patch of mud & stuck.

With aid of natives heaved car out.  Delay of 20-30 minutes.
Holmes & Bellows caught us up.  They had stuck too.  Reached Nairobi at noon.  Just too late to collect mail from Bank.  Saw V.O.C. & Morris agents.  Put up at Avenue.
Thus ends our second & longest phase of the trip.   Glad to hear Clarke is in Nairobi.

Mileage:- Day:- 96m. Total 8890 m.

Celebrating:- Bellows, Clarke & us.  Fun with rickshaw.

May 7th  Felt groggy; day in bed.  Partly due to celebrating, I fear.

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May 8th  Lunch with Bond. (Chief of V.O.C. here) & others at Nairobi Club.  Column & half in “Standard”.

May 9th  Holmes, Bellows, Clarke, Walter & I taking pictures of game.  Feeling v.bad.  Taken to Maia Carberry Nursing Home.  Got Malaria.

(There is now a gap in Gilg's diary until 17th May as he recovers from malaria.  The big game trip had to be curtailed as he fell ill and the book notes he felt a 'cad' at letting the party down.
However, this pause in the expedition gave the opportunity to have some work done on the Minor - see the garage bill below)

10th May  Since there is a break in the diary, some other fascinating documentation from the expedition will be posted.
To start, here is a letter from Gilg to his friend Richmond Jones penned on May 8th and annotated Despatch No. 9.
The original letter, then typed text and then the envelope:

Dear Richmond Jones,

I was so glad to get your letter of the 7th alt. which was forwarded here & arrived this morning.  Before I continue the account of our journey I would like
to congratulate you on being made a partner.  I wasn’t quite sure if (1,000 pardons; my fountain pen has run dry and its 3 floors down to the ink) it was April1st
so I waited until the letter heading revealed the glad news.  Please accept my tardy, but nevertheless sincere felicitations. Hail O Junior Partner.
Le, (very far from) marituri salutant.

   Many thanks for keeping so careful a vigilance.  I shall have great interest in going through the miscellaneous items when I return.
Now, to carry on from Stanleyville.  We left in quite a caravan.  First – the Morris, which I drove, taking one – Clarke, going home on leave, as passenger.
Second a big Buick due for shipment  up country, driven by Walter.  Last – Chevrolet , driven by Breknell (whom I believe I have previously mentioned),
carrying a Mrs.Wykes & daughter.   The procession moved off well, & good progress was made during the morning, despite 3 more of the eternal ferries.
The  Chev. overtook Clarke & I after the 3rd ferry.  (Mem:- Walter drove the Chev. & Breknell the Buick, not as I have stated.  The order of driving & pairing
remains unaltered.  Walter had Breknell’s "boy" as passenger).  Clarke & I chopped in the bush on sandwiches, biscuits, & soda water.
Shortly after we were caught in a tropical storm.  We halted in an open space by a village & whiled away the time by eating eggs boiled by the villagers.
The Buick hit the storm also & were blocked for some time by a fallen tree.

The journey continued for 2 days through thick bush, till near the end of the 2nd day (23/4/33),
when we emerged abruptly from the forest & presently (oh, wonderful sight to eyes so long starved of mountains) saw the Ruwenzori  mountains, serene in the setting sun,
with a hint of snow right on the summit.  We were now over 3,000 ft. up & the air was marvellous after the stuffiness of the last 6 weeks.  We gazed our fill and carried on
to Bunia which was our terminus.  Bunia stands 4,000 ft. & has a lovely climate.  We stayed here 6 days while awaiting the boat to take us across Lake Albert.
A splendid little hotel kept by a charming Boer & his wife.  Real breakfasts again & how they fed us.  Real vegetables too, as here it is high enough to grow lettuce, cabbage, spinach,
Brussels sprouts, peas, French beans, carrots, turnips, potatoes, tomatoes, as well as tropical stuff, such as mangoes, Japanese plums, bananas &c.
There are also conifers & all manner of English flowers.

When we arrived it was Sunday night and, in consequence, the place was crowded with people from outlying farms &c.
There was nearly a rough house when a Corsican threw a glass at a Belgian.  The adversaries had to be held apart & eventually peace was restored.
We made several excursions while at Bunia & had a whale of a time.  On the 29th we left the Congo & trod on British soil again in the shape of the “Robert Coryndon”,
a right, tight little boat.  V. sorry to leave Brecknell, but Clarke, Walter & I were all quite excited at all the signs of Britain about.  Good 74 mile trip to Butiaba, made overnight.
The car was towed behind the boat on a lighter.  We said a temporary good-bye to Clarke at Butiaba, & motored to Kampala, where the Vacuum Oil Co. were v. good to us.
Left Kampala on 1st May, after spending morning at V.O.C. being interviewed by editor of “The Uganda Herald”.  Expect to receive copies to-morrow.
Made Jinja that night, where fell in with a delightful American and a Kenya man who was driving him round.  Saw source of the Victoria Nile.
Many fish, birds, & some hippos & crocs.  Rather inspiring to think that this water we gazed at had to go 4,000 miles before it reached the sea.
Left Jinja on 2nd May & made Eldoret.  Crossed into Kenya this day & struck bad roads and rain.  The rains, just starting, are 6 weeks overdue;
consequently the coffee crop (Kenya’s last sound thing in the  depression) has suffered seriously & many  more farmers likely to go “bust”.
At Eldoret V.O.C. & Morris agent v. good to us.  Had to stay to lunch on 3rd May.  After lunch pushed on past Timboroa (9,000 feet & more) & reached
Nakuru where another great reception.  Spent a day at Nakuru.  Saw the well-nigh incredible spectacle of thousands of flamingos on Lake Nakuru.
One great pink fringe all round the edge.  Also saw a fine Waterbuck, and some hippo bones.

May 5th.  A perfect morning like a fine June morning at home.  Climbed to 9,000 again & then down to Thomson’s  Falls.  Thence to Nyeri.  Saw ostrich & very many buck.
Jusy escaped a down pour which nearly blocked the American & Holmes who were an hour or so behind us.  The roads surface in parts is black cotton earth
& rain just makes it a morass.  Had we been 2 hours later we should have stuck.

May 6th.  Magnificent view of Mt. Kenya (18,000 ft) in early morning.  Left on final stage of the second and longest lap of our trip.  After some 30 miles we stuck in the mud
caused by heavy rain during the night.  With aid of natives we literally picked the car out & off we went again.  Reached Nairobi at noon & were besieged by Press, V.O.C. & Morris agent.
We have dozens of things to do & and there seem to be at least 40 people we know already.  Grand whoopee on Saturday night.
We are going to try & get big game pictures to-morrow.

The car is in excellent condition thanks to Walter’s unremitting care.  Everyone remarks on it.
Nevertheless we are having it thoroughly overhauled before we leave at the week-end, I expect.  Tanganyika is our sole remaining serious obstacle, as the rains are still on there.
However no one anticipates a stoppage.  So hope runs high.  We are getting more & more help as we go on and there is reason to believe that the V.O.C.
may turn up trumps at Capetown . (Not for mass publication – yet).  We are both keeping fit & send our regards & good wishes,
Yours very sincerely
A.Cameron Gilg.

                                                                                                                                Nairobi.

                                                                                                                                Kenya.

                                                                                                                               11/5/33

Dearest Rene,

V. many thanks for your letter received at Kampala.

All continues to go well except that I’ve been bloody fool enough to get a slight dose of fever.  Nothing serious at all but it means bed for a day or two.
However these things happen and anyway a few days hence we should be on the way again.  That is if the rains allow.  Reports of Tanganyika roads are bad
& the still heavy rains may make them v difficult.  Still, I have no doubt we shall pull through all right.

We are quite notorious by now.  I should have attended a Rotary Club lunch to-day & “said a few words”.
Glad I got fever instead.  Newspapers I’ve got used to.

Glad you met some nice Yanks.  We fell in with a great guy – who travels everywhere here & tells the world, fought in the American-Spanish was of ’98 – yessir!,
&  way back at ‘ome in Yosemite Park – why my name isn’t Bellows if &c &c.  Lovely.

Both v. pleased to get back to British territory, though even so it’s not the same as at home.  I think the missing thing is tradition.
Kenya is a very young member of the Empire & is making a damned good show – but it’s all so new.
One misses the sight of an old church or pub covered with creeper.  Or the serenity and oldness of a cathedral close.

To Kay, of course, it is ideal, giving full scope of development for flying & and all modern noise & bustle.
He is at the aerodrome here half the day, as he knows one or two chaps there.

The trip so far has been marvellous, and the car has performed miracles and is in excellent condition.

It is as yet difficult to say when I’ll be home, roughly August I should say.

Well so long old girl, all the best to Ralph and a big hug for Biddy.

Tons of Love

Alan.

17th May  Left nursing home.  To pictures with Mr & Mrs Paul & Clarke.

18th May to 22nd May  Good time with Pauls, Clarke, “Samples” &c.

(Note: The “Samples” according to the book were a concert party on tour, 2 men and 3 girls
who had motored up in one car from Durban giving shows at each place of any size.)

23rd May  On the move again.  Glad, though sorry to leave the Pauls & Clarke.  Holmes had advised us to take the Athi River way to Kajiado.  Missed turning at the Athi River & went 8 miles on.
Turned back & discovered road to be a track with fearsome razor-backs.  After a mile or two we decided it was not worth continuing, so turned back to Nairobi.  We wasted 3 hours this way.
 Starting again we took the Ngong road.  After Ngong

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we entered the Game Reserve & presently I saw giraffe for the first time in their natural state.  They allowed one to approach quite close.  Earlier we saw a buffalo near Athi River.
The road was v. bad & we didn’t reach Kajiado till 15.15h. 3 3/4 hrs. to do some 50 odd miles.  Lunch here & thence on to Namanga River camp for the night.
Road somewhat better after Kajiado sparsely populated territory, but much game-we saw giraffe, wildebeest, ostrich and large numbers of buck of all kinds.  Reached Namanga at 19.30h.

Mileage:- Day 120m.   Total 9010m.
(This does not include the 60m. morning trip)
 In evening good view of Kilimanjaro. 1st puncture since near Buta.

24th May (Empire Day) Our host of the camp had hoped to show us elephants which had been seen, but native accounts reported their departure.
Left Namanga at 8.10 h. & shortly entered Tanganyika.  Good views of Kilimanjaro & Longido*. Customs at border.  Particular about firearms.  Road still bad.
Reached Arusha at 13.15h. (New Arusha Hotel).  Mount Meru v. fine.

* Scene of considerable fighting in Great War. (In pencil footnote at bottom of page)

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Nice spot Arusha.  Afternoon’s rest.  Empire day is a holiday in E. Africa so have to wait here till the evening to report.
 Marvellous crops here, despite phenomenal drought.  Rain in Jan. was the saving grace.  However, unless drought ends, they will feel the effects later on.

 Mileage:- Day 73m. Total 9,083 m.

25th May  Delay owing to having to comply with Immigration & Customs regulations.  Left at 9.45h.  At first good road, then vile, there being deep ruts which threatened to spell disaster.
After halting for sandwiches & beer there was some improvement.  Lost altitude & were bothered by tsetse fly.
Saw Lake Manyara across plains.  Reappearance of coconut palms & baobab trees.  Gaining altitude again came to a Fly Post where car was examined by native with net to catch fly.
 (Note:  Fly Post: According to the book, a native used a net to cleanse the car of tsetse fly in an attempt to prevent its spread.)
Reached Babati (Lake View Hotel) at 16.45h.  Hotel kept by young Ulyate, son of Arusha Hotel prop.r.
Hyenas making

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a din at night.
 Mileage:- Day 105m. Total 9,188m.

May 26th  Left Babati at 8.20h.  Road medium at first & then much improved.  An interesting day’s run through undulating country.  Many mountains in Tanganyika.
Made Dodoma at 16.00h.  Should have avoided any chance of rains now.  The drought has been our godsend.  Normally we should have had a month or two wait in Nairobi.
Now we are south of the rain area.   Thinking over plan to by new route to Mbeya to Salisbury & Bulawayo via Nyassaland.  Some several hundred miles & avoid bad Livingstone-Bulawayo road.
Could see Victoria Falls by rail from Bulawayo.  First heard of route in Nairobi (Gethin & Hulett’s).  And then again last night met a man from Salisbury who advised it.
 Interesting evening with O.A. Martin.

Mileage:- Day 160m. Total 9,348

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Four American girls at hotel-en route to Nairobi from Cape.

May 27th  Saw air liner, Andromeda, arrive from Mbeya.  V. interesting.

Left Dodoma at 9.45h.  Good going to Iringa.  Some 40 miles short of Iringa started to climb again.
Cold wind at Iringa.  Had tea there & then proceeded.  Continued to climb.  Passed several bush fires.  Reached Sao Hill farm & hotel & P.O. at 19.30h.
Damned good spot, 5,500 ft. up, kept by one G.P.Allen, a Nottingham man.  V.pleasant evening.  Typically English dinner & a welcome fire.  Cold east wind & cloudy.

Mileage:- Day:-222m. Total:- 9,590m.

May 28th  Depart Sao Hill 9.20h.  Excellent road to Bohra flats.  Discovered broken spring leaf-near front wheel.  Coming to Chimala river found one of two bridges washed away.
Temporary structure consisted of two girders placed apart at the width of track of cars usual to this country.  Of course this was no earthly good to us.
We elected to go through the river which, fortunately was shallow.  Lurched across only to find the bank of boulders

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the other side was too steep.  However the usual gang of boys appeared & with much heaving & lurching we gained the road again.  But not unharmed.
The broken spring had collapsed & two pieces of leaves had gone completely.  A mudguard was bent & the rear number plate bent.  There was alas a ding in the petrol tank.

Proceeded along picturesque mountain road to a height of some 8,000-9,000 ft.  A lot of bracken here.  Also the natives have a lot of ground growing peas.
Descending to 6,500 ft. reached Mbeya, a little place connected with the Lupa gold mines.  Decent crowd.  Arrived at 18.00h.
Two chaps recognised Walter from his stay here during his S.A. flight last year.

 Mileage:- Day:- 175m. Total 9,745m.

May 29th  Getting spring fixed up.  Difficult as we have two leaves out, there being none of our size.  Got 300/- refund, paid at Butiaba.  All in silver. (mostly English)

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Devil of a job getting spring back in place.  Tested spring & found the clips didn’t hold.  Had to abandon work for night.

Despatch No. 10.     Mbeya Hotel,
        Mbeys,
       Tanganyika Territory.

        May 29th. 1933.
Dear Richmond Jones,

Herewith another instalment while awaiting completion of repairs to spring.
We didn’t leave Nairobi till the 23rd instant.  We lost 9 days through my being fool enough to get Malaria.  Had eight days in hospital but v. soon got fit again.
On the 23rd we made 120 miles to reach Namanga River Camp.  Passed through game reserve.  Giraffe v. tame & allowed one to approach close to them.
Also buffalo, wildebeest, ostrich, impala, all manner of buck, & jackals.  The road was appalling – fearsome razor-backs & colossal ruts in a track over black cotton soil.
We took 3 ¾ hours to do just over 50 miles, the first 12 of which were  excellent.  Towards evening, as the heat haze lifted, Kilimanjaro began to show itself,
19,324 feet of massive extinct volcano; its snow cap giving it something of the appearance of a plum pudding with white sauce on the top.  Though a striking sight it has
nothing like the beauty of Mount Kenya.  People think how wonderful that there should be a mountain with eternal snow near the equator, & they mean Kilimanjaro,
being oblivious to the fact that Mount Kenya is virtually on the equator, & 380 miles north of Kilimanjaro, and has eternal snow & a glacier – the Tyndall glacier
named after the great climber of last century.  As usual the highest mountain gets all the glory.  Left Namanga next morning at 8.10h.  Just in this area
was the heaviest fighting in E. Africa during the Great War.  Very soon we entered Tanganyika & had to stop at Longido (many German gun emplacements still visible on the mountain).
Strict rules about entry of firearms into the territory.  Paid for a licence & proceeded to Arusha (5 hours to do 73 miles) a nice little town at the base of Mt. Meru.
Things grow v. well here and we had some v. fine strawberries.  It was Empire day & a holiday so we had to wait till next morning
to comply with immigration rules.  Absurd!

25/5/33 More appalling roads.  Lost altitude & got to the level of baobab & coconut palms again.  There  were a considerable number of tsetse fly here.
Ascending again we came to a Fly Post where a native examined the car for fly to see that we carried none into the non-fly area.
Night at Babati,  7 hours to do 105 miles.  Hyenas making a din all night.

26/5/33  From Babati to Dodoma over better road.  Interesting scenery too.  Tanganyika is a mountainous country and motoring is far from dull accordingly.
Having reached Dodoma we were south of the rain area.  In any normal year we could never have made the run owing to rain.  But the phenomenal drought proved a godsend to us.
But for the drought we should have had to wait till well on in June before leaving Nairobi & then we would have had a very rough passage.
South of Dodoma the season is quite different – Jan to March.  This area had its rain, though less than normal.

27/5/33 Saw air mail arrive.  Interesting.  Road very much better.  Before Iringa began to climb fast.  Reached 6,500 feet and  spent the night at Sao Hill, a delightful farm cum hotel
kept by a real old North Country farmer.  There was a very cold east wind & we were glad to see a fire.  Everything very English.  Fine apples grow here – yet in Kenya they won’t row at all.

28/5/33  Good going as far as the Chimala river where we found a bridge had been swept away & only replaced by a couple of girders which would take a car of normal track
but were far too far apart for our track.  Fortunately the river was shallow so we wallowed our way across & then stuck on the opposite bank – v. steep with nasty boulders.
We got several boys to push & presently heaving & lurching horribly the car struggled up the bank & on to the road – but not undamaged.  One spring badly smashed in two leaves,
back number plate bent, one mudguard bent & petrol tank dented.  After this we passed through some fine mountain scenery & so reached Mbeya, where Walter was remembered
as he stayed here during his South African flight last year.  There are big gold mines near here.  A wonderful climate which make us both feel very fit.  We eat and sleep heartily & long.
I can see the first Rhodesian hills from here.  As soon as the car is fixed up we shall beetle along into Rhodesia.  We are endeavouring to find a reported new road direct to Salisbury
which will save us a few hundred miles.  However we should have no difficulty in getting right through now which ever way we take.
We have certainly broken the back of the journey, having done 9,745 miles.  We’ve used 324 gallons of juice – average 30 m.p.g.  Running days 60, stationary 57.

Well I think that’s all for now.  Hope all goes well at home.  Please pass on our regards &c

Yours very sincerely
A. Cameron Gilg

May 30th  Got clamps put on spring.  Away at 10.00h.  Good road to border.  Then entered grass belt.  Grass 10-12 ft. high brushing car on either side
& grass in centre of track sometime making 5-6 ft.  Found Mirenzi/Muwenzo road impossible owing to a deep & broad crevasse.  This meant taking Abercorn road.
Not enough petrol for this trip but decided to risk it, hoping to find a store on road.  No such thing.  Carried on along v.bad road.  Into numerous holes concealed by grass.
V. slow progress.  Petrol nearly running out & prospects looming of night in bush & then a long walk to Abercorn.  And then-wonderful stroke of luck-lights-another car.
Two young fellows from Natal bound for Nairobi and Kakamega.  Sold us 2 galls.  Made tea & ate sandwiches.  Biggest stroke of luck yet.
Said farewell to the Good Samaritans & went on into the night.  Road

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appalling all the way to Abercorn which reached at 23.40h.  Tired out and straight to bed.  Spring all to hell again.  Chased porcupine along road for 2 or 3 miles.

Mileage:- Day:-195m. Total 9,940m

May 31st Spring repaired.  Chasing all over Abercorn to get notes for £24 of silver.  Cleaned out the hotel, 3 stores, & garage in doing so.  Away at 12.55.
Abercorn is scene of von Lettow’s surrender- Nov. 25th. 1918.  Picanninies play golf here.  Good road to Kasama.  Reached Luadma hotel, three miles outside Kasama at 19.00h.

 Mileage:- Day:- 110m. Total 10,050m.

June 1st  Discovered spring clamp had not held.  Fixed free at Smith & Kitchin’s (same firm as Abercorn garage).  Left Kasama at 10.00h.
Fairish road through the same bush country as yesterday, to Chambesi where crossed river on pontoon.  After

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this the road was poor.  In some places it had collapsed v. badly & great care had to be exercised.  Met 2 Durban chaps en route for Lake Tanganyika.
Reached Mpika at dusk & put up at the Smith’s place by the aerodrome.  Charming couple who came down here from near Abercorn like old time settlers
bringing everything with them & then proceeding to build.  They are building a hotel & making a v. good job of it.  They make one v. comfortable & are most
interesting people.  Mrs. Smith is v. keen on making nice grounds for the hotel.  She seemed glad to meet me, saying I was the first person who had done
landscape work that she has come across.  So far they have only one room for visitors but that one v. comfortable, and soon the hotel will be up.  Considering they only
arrived last Xmas the progress is astonishing.  They have a baby buffalo which absorbs much milk, also two crested cranes (the hotel is to be called the “Crested Crane.”)
dogs & a cat which did amazing acrobatic stunts over my bed during the night.  The spring again failed to stay the course.

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What a curse it is.

Mileage:- Day:- 131m. Total:- 10,181

June 2nd  Walter had a shot at the spring-adjusting the clamp & binding the spring with lusisi bark.  Had a good look round and a mighty breakfast.
Didn’t tear ourselves away till 10.40h.  Road still poor & progress slow.  The only pleasure in motoring in N. Rhodesia seems to be the stops at night.
 About 35 miles from Kanona Hotel the car pulled up with a sudden jerk.  Getting out we found that the main leaf of the weak spring had gone & gone badly,
thus causing the brake to bind hard.  Disconnected brake &, wondering if the remains of spring would hold, we crawled along.  Progress was made harder by
there being a number of sand drifts to negotiate.  Twice I had to get out & push.  Made Kanona Hotel at dusk.  Rather cold.

 Mileage:- Day 110m. Total:- 10,291

June 3rd Found two leaves of front starboard spring gone.  Walter, with the kind assistance of Mr. Corrigan, managed to patch up both springs.  Sincerely hope these will hold
to Broken Hill where we can wire to Bulawayo & have spares sent up by rail.  In order to give the car every chance it was decided to place all our kit on a lorry
which is going to Broken Hill to-morrow.  Also as every pound of weight off the car will help.  I am travelling on the lorry myself, much though I hate the idea just as a captain
would hate leaving his ship.  But practicability before sentiment & we stand our last chance getting the crippled car to railhead by leaving her in the sole capable shape of Walter.
Lorry being driven by a hefty young New Zealander-Pat Fenn.

June 4th  Walter left at 7.45h. and we followed half an hour later.  There was a second passenger-Stephenson of Chifefwe.

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The Ford lorry was piled high with baggage, niggers, monkeys & cats.  It was an experience of interest to ride in it.  Making a colossal row (the silencer had been put out of action)
we started off & we were soon going along merrily, making light of the road.  When in top gear the lever has to be held in position by a cleft stick pressing against the dashboard.
We overtook Walter at about 40km.  All was well.  Carried on, with several halts to pick up dropped native’s baggage, to Chifefwe, Stephenson’s place.  He v. kindly gave us lunch,
during which Walter went past before we could stop him.  A more leisurely run brought us to Kapiri Mposhi just behind the Morris which had safely survived the journey.
It had been an anxious day, for Walter, a gruelling one.  A stout effort on his part.  Turned in early, thankful to have reached railhead.

 Mileage:- Day 175m. Total 10,466m.
   Saw turkey buzzards & snakes.

June 5th  Whit Monday.  Wired to V.O.C., Bulawayo for springs to be sent to Broken Hill.  Leisurely morning & a brief run to B. Hill (Boon’s Hotel).  Walter met several old pals.
Saw 2 rugger games in p.m.  To Bioscope with Fenn in evening.  Damned good laugh-Leslie Fuller in “To-night’s the Night”.

 Mileage:- Day 40m. Total 10,506m.

June 6th  Met V.O.C. chap from Ndola Wire from Bulawayo-springs despatched & prepaid.  D. good.  Shown over Mine by Bailey.  Making zinc.  D. interesting.

June 8th  Springs arrived & were duly put in.  Not standard springs unfortunately but much weaker ones.

June 9th  Left B. Hill at 9.50h.  Bad road over cotton soil for first 40 miles.  Then a few miles of good.  Large sharp thorn caused a bad puncture on this stretch.
Road deteriorated again.  Much

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warmer today.  Also lower altitude as the presence of a few coconut palms showed.  Reached Lusaka, new capital of N. Rhodesia at 16.10h.  Put up at Grand Hotel.
Interest in car at garage where had punctured tyre repaired.   Still unable to get definite information re Kafue-Salisbury road.  Passed several farms.  Fine cattle & maize.

 Mileage:- Day:- 90m. Total:-10,596m.

June 10th  Left Lusaka at 8.20h. and threaded a maze of trucks to reach the Great North Road once more.  Road poor but improved as we advanced.
Halted at Kafue Hotel where we were v. kindly given tea and advice on roads.  As a result decided not to risk short cut to Salisbury.  Crossed river Kafue by pontoon
after which road mainly good.  Reached Choma at 19.30h.

 Mileage:- Day 190m. Total:- 10,786

 Shortly after crossing Kafue R. climbed 600 ft. to summit of Molyneaux Pass (one place had 1 in 4 gradient).  Scenery pretty round Kafue & Molyneaux Pass.

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June 11th  A dull cool morning.  Left Choma at 8.50h.  Pretty good road though sand rather troublesome.  Weather gradually improved.  Lost altitude as we approached Zambezi R.
Entered Livingstone (old capital of N.Rhodesia) & found ourselves on an amazingly good road.  Could see spray from Victoria Falls.  Luxury of good road to the falls (arr 16.30h).
Amazing spectacle.  Have not yet had time to see them properly.  Luxurious hotel (said to be the finest in Africa).  Now in S. Rhodesia.  On arrival discovered loss of new hat (bought at Broken Hill).
Damned annoyed.  Must have been pinched at Choma.  Later discovered loss of gold cuff links which I had probably left in shirt sent to laundry.  More annoyed.

 Mileage:- Day:- 142m. Total:- 10,928m.

Have now seen Africa’s 4 great rivers.

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June 12th  Into Livingstone in a.m.  Rather a bother at customs.  Met Mr. & Mrs. Hawkins.  Hawkins was at school with Walter.  Mrs. H. comes from Chester & was married last Dec
in Chester Cathedral.  She knows Bowdon too.  Hectic rush trying to see as much as possible of the falls & environs.  Must try & write of the stupendous wonder of the falls
in detail at some moment of more coherent thought.  Shall be glad to have the reputedly bad road to Bulawayo behind us.  Am as nervous now as at any time-reason being
for fear of something baulking us at the last lap.

 Hot day.

June 13th  A very overcast morning.  Cool.  After formalities at S.R. customs set off at 9.00h.  Road turned out to be quite ordinary and very far from being what we

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we had been led to expect.  True there were some rather bad drifts with steep gradients but these presented no real difficulty.  Our run would have been good had it not been for
an extraordinary phenomenon-rain in the middle of the dry season.  We didn’t actually strike the rain but we suffered from its effects.  It must have rained hard heavily as we got stuck
in a bad patch of black cotton soil.  It was v.soft but by putting the car into reverse and pushing we regained more solid ground, and found a firmer way round.
The area of rain extended for some fifteen miles, commencing at about 30 minutes from V.Falls.  It then ceased but there were signs of more rain near Wankie.
We reached the “Wigan of Rhodesia” at 15.0h. and decided to have the glue-like mud which was thickly plastered on the car, removed and the car greased.  We therefore booked

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in at the hotel & took the car to the garage.  If left on this mud hardens and is liable to damage the paintwork when removed.
 Wankie is a town with a very big colliery and is like a miniature Wigan stuck in the middle of the bush.  It is at the bottom of a depression at 2,484 ft.  V.hot in summer.

 Mileage:- Day 80m. Total:- 11,008m.

June 14th  Left Wankie at 7.45h.  Fair run with some steep sided drifts to Delt.  Thereafter considerable sand which checked speed & made driving v. wearisome.
Some bush scenery.  Towards sunset met K. Jones on a Royal Enfield motor cycle attempting Pretoria-Cairo-Stamboul-London run.  Later met his companion with an old Radco
which was giving trouble.  Unable to help.  Reached Lonely Mine at 20.15h.  Put up at Club.  Long and tiring day.  Climbed to over 4,000 ft.

(Note: K. Jones: The book makes it clear that K. Jones had a partner on another motor bike.  The book recounts that the Radco biker was preparing a fire to spend the night in the bush.)

 Mileage:- Day 200m. Total:- 11,208m.

June 15th  Left  Lonely Mine at 8.40h.  Fair road to Turk Mine where wired to V.O.C. announcing our impending arrival at Bulawayo.  Road badly corrugated at this point to near Bulawayo
where came on to concrete strips.  Arrived at V.O.C. office  at 11.10h.  Immediately we were taken to tea at the club by Mr. Cooper, then to the Grand Hotel & then to M.G.S. (Morris agents).
Everybody v. kind.  Shopping in afternoon & then looked up Mr. Noble, relation of the Hawkaleys.  Up to his house where met his wife & young son.  Mr. N. helping us to dispose of our guns.  V. decent.
 Flicks in evening after finding roller skating crowded out.  Bulawayo, largest town in Rhodesia is a well built place with all amenities.

 Mileage:- Day:- 52m. Total:- 11,260m.

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 June 16th  Meeting people. Writing &c.

June 17th  Left Byo at 9.10h.  Through open ranch country over good road to Gwelo, where reached Midlands Hotel at 13.05h.  Pleasure to drive after weeks of displeasure.
Hills seen to the east during run.  Tea and dinner with the Mackenzies, friends of Walter.  Interesting time walking round farm.

 Mileage:- Day :- 108m.  Total:-11,368m.

June 18th  Leisurely day.  Left Gwelo at 10.55h.  Good going to Que Que where we lunched.  Through Gatooma to Hartley where we put up.
Arrived at 15.55h.  Quite a number of cars on the road.

 Mileage: - Day: - 107m.  Total: - 11,475m.

June 19th  Left Hartley at 9.20h.  One or two bad patches but otherwise good, though corrugated as usual, road to Salisbury.  One bad bump broke

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main leaf of starboard rear spring.  Arrived Salisbury 12.00h.  Walter has many friends here.

 Mileage:- 76m. Total:- 11,551m.

 Jolly evening with the Crittens.  Morris agents showing car in their window for 2 or 3 days we are here.  Spring repaired free &c.

June 20th  Saw Wallabies v Rhodesia match.  Wallabies won 24-5.  Good, clean, open game.  Nice ground.

June 21st  Showed developed part of film to Morris people, Crittens & one or two friends of Walter.  Pub crawled in evening-five of us.

June 22nd  I shall always associate Southern Rhodesia with ‘Westminster chime’ clocks-you hear them everywhere.
 Great crowd round car as we prepared to set off once more. Sorry to leave the Crittens. Left at 9.30h. & had a god road as far as

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Hunyani-favourite resort at week-ends.  From Beatrice to Enkeldoorn the road was rather poor, some patches of sand, also bad corrugation.
E’doorn to Umvuma-fair.  Umvuma-Victoria mainly good.  Shortly after leaving Beatrice a new & excruciating rattle was heard.  Eventually traced it to a broken spring clip
which was allowing the top leaf of rear part of spring to hit the chassis when a big bump occurred.  Later I noticed the calometer was only registering 40 degree C.
Discovered wire to have snapped.  Lunched at Umniati River Bridge-rather pretty.
 Approaching Mvuma the country became prettier-hills.  Mystery of Umvumas statue chimney.
 Descended about 1,000 ft. from Umvuma to Ft. Victoria which we reached at 17.45h.  Pleasantly situated among the hills, this is

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 the centre for Zimbabwe Ruins, one of the mysteries of the world.  Are going to see them to-morrow.

 Mileage:- Day:- 190m. Total:- 11,471m.

June 23rd  Self starter failed to operate.  Car pushed to Midlands Garage.  Proprietor of hotel offering to give us free accommodation for having advert painted on car.
 Found separators in one cell of battery gone to blazes.  New ones fitted.  Also spring repaired.
 In afternoon to Zimbabwe ruins.  Interesting & mysterious.  Back to Victoria for night.

 Mileage:- Day:- 32m. Total:- 11,773m.

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June 24th  Above offer accepted & carried out.  Left Victoria at 9.25h.  Had hardly gone a mile when back number plate came adrift.
Repaired with string & carried on.  Generally good road as far as Lundi River.  Descended 2,000ft to this place, passing several of the rock hillocks peculiar to this part of the world.
Beer at hotel.  Road bad for about 20 miles & then better again.  Reached Beit Bridge at 17.15h.  Passed customs & put up at hotel.  Only 1,200 ft. above sea level.

 Mileage:- Day 180m  Total 11,953

June 25th  After sundry delays left Bet Br. at 8.40h.  Crossed the bridges, a fine piece of work.  The Limpopo dried up.  Entered Union of S.A. where the police asked
if we any skins, carcasses, food &c.  (This owing to Foot & Mouth in S.A.)  The notorious road to Messina proved to be reasonable enough.  Messina-first S.A. town-a scruffy coal mining place.
Really first class road-what a joy, and then good but corrugated road.  Gained altitude quickly to reach Wyllies Poort, a picturesque gorge following a steep ascent.

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To about 3,850 ft. where came upon fine view over veld with small ranges of hills and isolated hills rising out of it.  Louis Trichardt lay in the foreground, 500 ft. below us.
Straight road to Pietersburg, passing many ox-waggons, donkeys, Scotch carts &c.  Many evidences of Afrikaans & their old fashioned ways.  V. bad corrugation between Potgietersrust and Nylstroom.
Discovered an engine bolt loose.  Reached Warmbaths-health resort with natural springs-at dusk.  Cool after dark.  Good going to Pretoria which we reached at 19.55h.  V. dusty & rather tired & cold.
Pretoria seems a vast city to us-though only 88,000 population.  Funny to see so many buildings again & trams & policemen in uniforms approximating to those of the London “bobby”.  Put up at Polly’s Hotel.

 Mileage:- Day:- 312m. Total:- 12,265m.

June 26th  Car washed at garage.  Dep. Pretoria at 11.10h.  Met by five Morris Minors outside Johannesburg-four driven by Cormack’s men and one by “Trickey” Price of the V.O.C.
Photographed outside City Hall.  Entertained by Price and others.  Weather cold.

 Mileage:- Day:- 36m. Total:- 12,301m.

June 27th  Car on show at Connock’s.  Jo’burg an amazing city.  First flight.

June 30th  Wrote an article for the ‘Gargoyle’.

July 3rd  After a mad, glorious week prepared to leave Jo’burg.  Found a broken main leaf in front starboard spring just as we were about to leave.  Eventually left at 1.50h & made good going
to Parys where we halted for tea.  Now in the O.F.S, having crossed the Vaal River.  Reached Kroonstad at 18.45h.  Road good-occasional bad corrugations.
At Kroonstad met with Mr Bradshaw, relation of the Hawksleys.

Mileage:- Day:- 132m. Total 12,433m.

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July 4th  Made up for lack of sleep due to late nights in Jo’burg.  Didn’t leave till 10.25h.  Excellent roads kept in order by an ingenious machine called a grader (or scraper).
Lunch at Winburg.  The Free State very flat and arid looking due to the drought.  Reached Bloemfontein at 15.30h.  Practically no British cars at all here.

 Mileage:- Day:- 146m. Total:- 12,579m.

July 5th  Dep. Bloemfontein at 9.15h.  Scenery became slightly better, there being kopjes & occasional green, though still many evidences of the disasters caused by drought.
Lunch at Phillipolis.  Shortly after lunch crossed the Orange River & entered the Cape Province.  Road narrowed & deteriorated.  Country more hilly.  Road bad between

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Noralyspont and Middleburg, at which place we had tea.  Over rather rough mountains road through Sneeuwberg mountains.  Rather picturesque by moonlight.
Reached Graaff Reinet at 20.00h.

 Mileage:- Day:- 285m. Total:- 12,864m.
Lost altitude to 2,463 ft. Overcast at night.

July 6th  Graaff Reinet is prettily situated among hills.  Left at 9.00h.  Rough road across desolate, dusty country through Aberdeen to Willowmore where had lunch.
Approaching Uniondale we came into more picturesque country, and continuing through Avontour had a grand run, culminating in the magnificent Montagu Pass.
Swirling clouds swirled over Dolomitic Peaks.  Unfortunately it was nearly dark so couldn’t take pictures.  Restful country with old farms-oldest settled part of S.A.  From here

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to Capetown.  A glimpse or two of the so long absent sea and then just short of Mossel Bay we came on it.  The sea again!  We had traversed Africa at last!
 Put up at Marine Hotel, Mossel Bay, overlooking the Indian Ocean. (18.45h)

Mileage:- Day:- 245m. Total:- 13,109m.

July 7th  Dep. Mossel Bay 8.55h.  V. overcast.  Poor road as far as Albertina.  Mountains obscured by cloud.  Improved road to Riversdale where sent wires.
Sea mist round here.  Road much better for rest of way.  Interesting run though unfortunately clouds obscured much of the mountain view.  Lunched at Swellendam.
Snow on some summits.  Tea at Grabouw.  Past good conifer woods to summit of Sir Lowry Pass (1,400 ft.) where

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magnificent view over False Bay to Cape Penninsula.  Sober thoughts while gazing towards Capetown with the sun setting over the goal of our trip.
Night at Somerset W.

 Mileage:- Day:- 230m. Total:- 13,339m.

July 8th 158th day.  Car spruced up at Strangmans (F.O.C.).  Along excellent tarmac road to Capetown.  Met some 4 or 5 miles out by 6 or 7 Morrises & a padre in a Standard.
Slow procession through main streets to Brinks, the agents.  And so the trip is ended.

 Mileage:- Day:- 31m. Total:- 13,370m.
Exultant but confused.

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